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I thought I'd post and run this by the best minds in Ford country. My ps pump is pumping fluid out of the filler tube, and at a pretty fast drip rate.
I have a mid 70s Ford gear and a reman small filler tube pump ( fits under the bracket, & on a FE engine). I am not sure at this point if something is gummed up in the gear that is causing the pressure to insrease enough to flow out, if the sealing power of the dip stick is gone, or if the pump is going south.
It shouldn't pump fluid out at all, obviously. THe cap or stick doesn't really seal the opening. Is the fluid at the correct level? It could be an air pocket or maybe the relief valve is stuck. At rest, it just should circulate fluid. I'd try another pump. That one definitely has problems. Rebuild kits are really just re-seal kits, so that won't help your problem.
John, if you want to go with the later pump, you can. I put the smaller, plastic bodied one, with the large fill hole on my '76 390. It was from a '78 with a 400M. I had to change out the pressure hose for the '78 version, but that's all.
Whether it is the pump or the box, I really don't know. I would like to learn what you discover, though.
I started to leave one morning recently and had no power, I had to add quite a bit of fluid and things started working again. I'm confused when I found it pumping out the top. That should mean that pressure is building up inside the pump body, and I didn't think that should happen.
I recently changed engines in my Taurus truck and was watching in the large opening pump that we were refilling, that the fluid was just being circulated with no noticable pressure build up.
I recently put power steering on my 66. It is nice with one exception. When I have the front end jacked up with wheels off the ground and turn the steering wheel with out running the engine, it pumps fluid out the cap. I have asked several "mechanics" and they all say that is OK. Any comments.
NO, it shouldn't pump fluid out when it's shut off. The relief valve is supposed to keep fluid circulating thru the pump when the wheel is at "rest" so it doesn't pump it all back into the pump, causing a overflow. Yours is doing the same thing only when it's shut off. I think the valve is supposed to "center" itself at idle or shutoff, creating a loop so fluid just flows in one big circle. If it sticks, the fluid can't circle and has to find the path of least resistance and out the cap it goes. The plastic pumps are easy to swap, I'm uncertain on the metal can pumps how they're changed.
Barry, the plastic ones are bolted up the exact same way as the metal cannister ones. In fact, as far as I can tell, they aren't any different in the results they produce.
I replaced a cannister one in a '76 F-150 (from a 390), with one from a 400 out of a '78 F-150 with no problems.
The only change I had to make was the pressure line, because the '78 line had a swivel joint on the side, but the '76 cannister type had a typical pressure fitting.
Yes, they bolt up, it's the fitting with the relief valve in the old style pump. I think they come out the same way. The plastic pump are all the same except for the fitting and which way the return line goes on the body. Some point down, some go out the back. I swapped a plastic pump off a 93 Taurus 3.8 and put it on a 89 F-250 5.8 and all I had to do was swap the relief valve on the back. We used to do this at the dealer. I stocked 2 different parts numbers and made them fit all the cars and trucks.