is 2.9L really that bad?

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  #16  
Old 03-21-2005, 11:12 PM
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even a world head can crack. if the engine is not taken care of properly.
from 86-87 have a different style 88-90 are better . aftermarket better than that.
but ALL are prone to cracking if you don't take care of engine.
 
  #17  
Old 03-22-2005, 05:39 PM
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Thanks for the advice guys. I think i am going to check into the aftermarket head. oh yeah, the engine has 50000 miles, not 5000. still should not have cracked though. never ran hot, changed oil regular, coolant etc. just bad luck
 
  #18  
Old 03-23-2005, 06:50 PM
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I have a 88 BII with the 2.9, manuel % speed, manuel hubs, and I plow with mine. Never had a problem , only brakes, hoses, general maintence, and 168k on the odometer. Oh and one clutch!
 
  #19  
Old 06-19-2007, 03:23 AM
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i had an 86 b2 4x4 with a 300 straight 6 and 5 speed trans. it had 200,000 plus miles of neglect and sever abuse when my uncle finaly sold it to me. when i got it,the proper mantainance was started, but it still got some pretty heavy abuse. i laid it on its side twice in one day, climbing river bankes. drove it in the river up to the head lights on a regular bassis. i tryed for a year and a half to kill it and couldnt. the worst i could do was burn up two ram clutchs. burnt the first one up in a push of war in a mud pit. {still won though.} lost the second one pulling a z71 out of the mud, he tryed to follow me after every one there worned him not too. {that second clutch was worth every penny} .it never once got stuck, and it always got me home. guess what im trying to say is ,its a ford, beat it ,bash it and abuse it , then servise it . it will last when nothing else can or will. WHEN IN DOUGHT, FORD POWER IT OUT!
 
  #20  
Old 07-01-2007, 09:32 AM
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we got over 200,000 miles out of our '86 2.9, when the t-stat stuck closed, motor got hot, cracked a head. rebuilt that shortblock and bought a pair of world product heads, we're looking forward to the next 200,000 miles.
 
  #21  
Old 07-02-2007, 08:33 PM
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love my lil 2.9 never lets me down
 
  #22  
Old 08-05-2007, 06:11 PM
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Lucky117,take or leave this advice:If you're still in school and don't have a job yet,or even if you do find a job soon don't go too far with the Bronco upgrades.As you can see if you scan other posts the 2.9 and its systems have their problems and you can dump alot of time and money into something that just aint worth it.You're in metal shop which is great and you can use that skill to go wild on a project...maybe a 72 Bronco,but even us older guys have to save for along time to do a build and a good one will take years.Get your basics done on the 88 and make this your support vehicle:don't try to polish a turd too much.Start with something that has value/tried and true design,even if its just a frame,build a crazy buggy or mud tromper.Use an engine that does'nt require all the smog stuff.Master your skill
 
  #23  
Old 08-07-2007, 07:28 PM
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well. I am 16 have an 87 Bronco II. 2.9 5 speed 4x4 manual hubs. I just bought $200 in ignition upgrades and now my wallet is a bit lighter. I am putting my money into the piece to get the best out of it. this is to be a great offroad machine some day and i might as well start right. IS THERE ANYWAY TO CHANGE MY IGNITION CONTROL MODULE WITHOUT REMOVING THE DISTRIBUTOR???? I just got my Accel PCM, Accel Cap and Rotor, Accel Coil, Bosch Platinum2 plugs, and my Taylor Thunderbolt 8.2 wires should be here in 2 weeks because they were on back order.
 
  #24  
Old 08-07-2007, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by broke77f100
well. I am 16 have an 87 Bronco II. 2.9 5 speed 4x4 manual hubs. I just bought $200 in ignition upgrades and now my wallet is a bit lighter. I am putting my money into the piece to get the best out of it. this is to be a great offroad machine some day and i might as well start right. IS THERE ANYWAY TO CHANGE MY IGNITION CONTROL MODULE WITHOUT REMOVING THE DISTRIBUTOR???? I just got my Accel PCM, Accel Cap and Rotor, Accel Coil, Bosch Platinum2 plugs, and my Taylor Thunderbolt 8.2 wires should be here in 2 weeks because they were on back order.
the IGNITION CONTROL MODULE can be very easly relocated to the fire wall where it seems to work much better away from the heat of the engine TRS therangerstation.com has a very good write up on this
 
  #25  
Old 08-07-2007, 09:31 PM
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well that doesnt help beings how i cant get the origninal one off anyhow? and what type of screw is it? phillips? flathead? allen? torq?
 
  #26  
Old 08-07-2007, 11:27 PM
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It should be a 7/32 hex, and will need a thin wall socket.
 
  #27  
Old 08-07-2007, 11:36 PM
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thank you very much, i will try that tomorrow when its daylight haha
 
  #28  
Old 09-01-2007, 04:51 AM
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The reason why some 2.9's ticks so much is because the rocker armshafts clogs up with slugde restricting oil flow to the valve train.
 
  #29  
Old 09-02-2007, 02:31 PM
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i went and bought a special tool for the module. put on all my new parts. ran good. now it wont turn over?...the battery has full charge and the terminal clamps are brand new. clean connections. the solenoid makes an odd noise so i tried one i have that i knew was good and its still doing the same thing?
 
  #30  
Old 09-02-2007, 05:10 PM
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Have you changed the baattery wires? If so, they should be the same length as this
starting system is fussy about getting its' full current. You might have the starter motor tested also, as they can fail without any major symptoms.
 


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