sub problems
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Elder User
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From: Charlotte, NC
sub problems
Ok, I just put two subs in my truck, the first day, one was fine, and the other distorted. I took the one that distorted out of the loop, looked at it and found a hole in the cone surround. I patched that up, and let it sit a day, I took it back out and hooked it back up and it works only up to volume level 8-10 of 30, and then it cuts both subs out. I checked the wiring, everything is nice and tight. I have bridged it so that is the only sub there and it only goes up to 6 before it cuts out, the other sub, bridged, works great. I can't get a feel if I fixed this sub or not bc it won't get loud enough for me to hear any distortion. Any ideas why this is happening like this? I have run out of ideas. Could it be something inside of the sub? I've thought about hooking the subs up opposite of what they are now, and see if it is something in the wiring. Could it be something in the wiring? Any help would be great, I've got another sub that I am going to hook up to it and see if it is the sub itself.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 435
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From: MASS
ifyou can post the exact equipment (brand + model)
and how its all wired\connected
it will be easier for us to help you diagnose a problem
also your sub could be blown or shorted out
which could be your entire problem
measure the resistance of the sub across the leads with an
ohm meter and compare to factory specs
also put your ear up to the front of the cone and gently push the cone in
and back out listen for any crackling or resistance
it should glide in quiet and smooth
Josh
JB Customs
and how its all wired\connected
it will be easier for us to help you diagnose a problem
also your sub could be blown or shorted out
which could be your entire problem
measure the resistance of the sub across the leads with an
ohm meter and compare to factory specs
also put your ear up to the front of the cone and gently push the cone in
and back out listen for any crackling or resistance
it should glide in quiet and smooth
Josh
JB Customs
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 952
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From: Charlotte, NC
it's a pioneer ts-w33c impp, 150 rms, 450 max, no noise when pressing in the cone, don't have anything to measure resistance, it just baffles me that it works fine, i pull it out, put it back in and it doesn't work, I know it's used, so it could be blown. I bought them both wholesale, this one doesn't make any noise pressing in the cone, and slides smoothly.
It is wired up to a 760 watt amp, 125x2x4ohm amp. worked fine, just distorted in the initial hook up, now doesn't power up completely, shuts off at certain volumes.
It is wired up to a 760 watt amp, 125x2x4ohm amp. worked fine, just distorted in the initial hook up, now doesn't power up completely, shuts off at certain volumes.
Last edited by fordtrucklover94; Mar 11, 2005 at 01:41 PM.
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Man There Are Some Many Things That Could Cause Your Problems,if You Know Someone That Has A Pretty Good Knoweldge Of Car Audio That Could Look At Your System And Check Things With A Volt Meter That Would Probably Be Your Best Bet..
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Sugar Hill, GA
I agree with the fact that it is probably a voicecoil problem. The wire may have become separated from the former, shorting or otherwise affecting the impedence. Since the amo drives the other sub fine, I'm assuming that it truly is the sub. If you push the cone in and out with your hands and hear a scrape, then you know the wire has come separated from the former and it's definitely bad. Even if you don't hear anything obvious, it sure seems like a voicecoil issue.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Indiana
sounds like it, i had a friend who bought some new subs and his amp kept going into thermal overload mode. Turned out one of the subs were fried and were actualy smoking. So im definately guessing its the sub. (I doubt it would be the amp if the other sub works just fine).
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Charlotte, NC
so maybe when I rehooked it up, it may have done something then? I mean, when I initially hooked it up, it worked ok, but when i hooked it up the second time, nothing works right, but i take it right back out, and everything else works fine. Why would this cause the second sub not to work right when they are both hooked up? Are they hooked up in series and when one goes out, they both go? the amp is pioneer gm-X962, I don't think it's a problem with the amp since when i hook the other sub up the same way as the one causing problems, it works absolutely perfectly, I've checked all connections, they are fine, so it has to be something internal on the sub, I don't hear a scraping noise when I push in the cone though, it sounds fine and moves with ease.
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Elder User
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From: Charlotte, NC
I was referred to liquid nails on the interior of it by a friend, I used something similar to that, can't remember what it was exactly called, I can't find the tube I used. It sealed up the hole nicely, doesn't open or close in that hole anymore.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
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the problem there is the patch is to heavy on that side and is to close to the voicecoil and is makeing contact. Tried it before on some old speakers with fiberglass and had to sand it down in small incremts to get it to balance out.
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Elder User
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From: Charlotte, NC
so basically, that little bit is causing it to be off balanced, and it is fine when it goes in at low levels but when it tries to hit harder, it throws it off balance and the coil stops the motion? How would i go about correcting that, just put some on the other side opposite of it, and try to balance it out that way?
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Pioneer GM-X926 problem
Originally Posted by danger_ranger_dude
sounds like it, i had a friend who bought some new subs and his amp kept going into thermal overload mode. Turned out one of the subs were fried and were actualy smoking. So im definately guessing its the sub. (I doubt it would be the amp if the other sub works just fine).
Last edited by Beast01; Jul 16, 2007 at 02:00 PM.