Hey All. This is my first post since checking this site out. I really learned a lot about diesels from just reading the threads. I've gone through slightly more than half of the archived posts on pre-psd. Lots of good stuff in there. My '94 7.3 factory turbo is my first diesel. I got it with 140,000mi on from a private dealer who in turn picked up at an auction in Mass. I'm SOLD. I don't really think I can go back to a gasser after driving this stock monster. This being said AFTER paying 7,600.00 (installed) on a Ford rebuilt 7.3 after mine spun a bearing a year after I got it. That was two weeks ago. Aside from saying hello to everybody, I have two issues that I hope you all could shed some light on. The first one is my hard starting issue. Ever since the rebuilt motor went in, I'm having a REALLY hard time starting it when it's not plugged in. The rebuild was a long block that needed my IP; intake; exhaust; and accessories. It came with injectors. I read a thread (that I can't find anymore) that suggested I might need a dynamic timing of my IP. I'm not blowing any black smoke on wide open throttle. Maybe I need more fuel? Issue #2: My E4OD. Sometimes I get the trouble OD light blinking with the associated hard shifting. And sometimes it just goes away (blinking OD light and all) on it's own. When I shift in to reverse, it takes about 3 or 4 seconds to engage, always. Too long as far as I'm concerned. A couple of times she kind of went in to a neutral state after rounding a corner and pouncing on the accelerator pedal, but then went in to the right gear after I backed off like nothing ever happened. The speedo is not bouncing. I also read a thread (again that I can't find) that mentioned some of the stuff to tell the tranny tech to do to bulletproof the E4OD if it was going in for a rebuild. If you all could repeat that for me I would appreciate it. Thanks.

'94 XLT F-350 7.3 factory turbo. E4OD auto.

 

I have a 94 fac turbo, with 93k. So some of the problems you are having happened to me. Some questions - does your 'wait to start lite' come on? If it does not try checking out your GP's. Normal operation when cold is the w.t.s.lite stays on for +/-10 secs while the GP's heat up, then cycle (look at the volt meter) There are a lot of threads on how 2, test - lite or meter (I wrote a thread on how to replace, the ones under the turbo are a pain) . Your flashing O/D lite (assuming you have checked fluid level) could be the speed sensor in the rear axle, mine had similar sysmptoms. Check out thread ' O/D lite flahes' .

 

As far as the tranny goes, my mechanic, a great and trusted friend, but not a diesel mechanic (he owns one too) told me at a 100mi check up that it was down 2 quarts of tranny fluid. The tailshaft seal and bearing are shot and need to be replaced. I should have included the following info but I wrote such a book to begin with. My GP system appears to be functioning normally. I get a wait to start lite that stays on about 5 or 6 sec. then cycles on and off for another 5 or 6 sec. It all worked fine on the old motor, but with the rebuilt motor, not so good. Since I had reused my original IP (with 150k mi. on it) I figured I might need it timed or tuned. Also would anyone know how long is the wait for the GPs to heat up again once I've turned the ignition off after a no start. Thanks for the reply deanj.

 

Check those gp's,i dont think 5-6 secs is long enough,should be 10 or more.One or more bad gp's will shorten the wts time.Take a test light and clamp it to the pos batt cable,pull the wire of a glo plug and touch the probe to where the wire came off,if it lights then its good,if not,its bad,continue on to check all the gp's individualy.If its firing good when pluged in,that too is a good indication of probs with the gp system.

 

So far I have bought two factory built E4ODs to put on carb 460s.

The delay going into reverse seems to be normal.

If you loose the speed sensor signal the controller will think the vehicle is stopped. That can cause some violent shifting. Also, never let a trans get low on fluid.

Do not tell a trans tech how to build an E4OD. Find one who already knows. I have a parts list of everything you can do to upgrade an early E4OD. But, just knowing what parts to buy does not get you a good trans. The first E4OD was done in by the Ford bean counters. But Ford fixed it. Basically you are trying to make a 96 out of anything earlier. And then there are towing upgrades beyond that.

The Baumann controller is a great unit. Very programmable. Two complete profiles. In a small car they might be strip and street. In my case I call them town and highway.

 

As for the od light,check and clean the plugs on the tranny,a lot of times that will cure the od blinking syndrome.Could also be the FILP not set properly(mounted on the ip),bad tach sender(mounted on the ip gear cover),bad speed sens(mounted on top of the rear end pumpkin).A 2-3 sec delay goin into reverse as far as im concerned is normal.I plow snow so i know what your talking about,for me i just had to train myself to be a little more patient.

 

I agree with pnose, 4-5sec is not long enough, when cold it should be at least 10 + sec. If you plug it in and it starts fine then it is a good indication that you have GP problems. I only had 3 or 4 bad and it was a bear to start, plugged it in for 2-3 hrs and was fine. Also in your original post you said it started fine when plugged in, so your IP must be working. Check your GP's. Gheck your tranny fluid frequently, low (especially 2qts) is not good.

 

i had all of your symptoms except for the starting had the trans rebuilt needed a new tourqe converter bad wire on speed sensor same time lag on reverse seams to be the norm on stock e4od trans