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Does replacing the 6.0 head bolts with ARP studs fix the Overheating and coolant blow out issues?
I drive a dually pulling a 3-car trailer loaded around 800 miles each week...If i have a heavy load or lots of wind it is common for me to overheat on a long uphill if i don't keep the RPM's under 2500....also occurs sometimes in overdrive at lower RPM's if im running her hard.....
I am running a superchip on tow/w no speed limiter stacked with a 3 stage Volumizer, unplugged EGR, and no muffler.... I leave the Volumizer off when towing....
I have learned to listen for the fan clutch and watch my temp guage.... i have always been able to back out of it quickly and the motor cools back down with no futher problems....I have done this for 60,000 miles now and am sick of it!
If ARP studs will stop this, i plan on doing it out of my own pocket....
Also, do i need Hyper-max aftermarket head gaskets or will factory Ford head-gaskets work?
Last edited by KnightRider; Mar 9, 2005 at 04:04 PM.
I truly dont know the answer, but I sure wouldnt think the problem is in the head gasket seal. If it was, it would consume water anytime it was at operating temperature or it would bubble up in the radiator, or both. Have you had the cooling sytem pressure checked? Are there different thermostats available?
I think you'll find that the evan's waterless is only a different concentration of the same antifreeze ford runs in its 6.0 trucks--Propolyene Glycol. As for that.......I really don't know the concentration of the Ford PG. Does anyone??? I've had the fan clutch checked, system pressure checked--all good, but I still blow antifreeze and I've that annoying leak when it gets below 40 degrees Farenheit. I've even had the blackstone analysis to check for antifreeze in the oil--ALL to no avail. All I get from Ford is, "We can't see it leak we can't fix it." They can't even find it with the dye in the antifreeze, but it's sure in my driveway.
Last edited by npccpartsman; Mar 9, 2005 at 09:47 PM.
Ok....now. Your blowing antifreeze. It covers the ground in your driveway. No leaks detected, using a programmer pulling heavy loads and everything is fine from Fords end.
I try and help but get stepped on.
To me I wunder why I even try.
I know guys pulling Hot Shots that gross 45 thousand.....and they can't figure out why thier truck will not perform like the Peterbuilt they should of bought in the first place.
Knight.....by the time you read this I would like to apologize.
I think your problem is far more than what you stated here.
At some point in time ( with the program and heavy load ) you have over heated the truck if your losing that much fluid. I would do a leak down each cylinder and see if you do not have a cracked head, this is more than a cooling system check for pressure.
I am not loosing that much fluid..... My main problem is the heat-up issue....Sure when it gets hot it will blow out some fluid, but i have no leaks around the heads, and never a pudle under the truck.....
Whatever is happening happens quickly at high boost mostley on a long up-hill...I believe that its a head gasket problem and nothing to do with the coolant..
I've had this problem even when no aftemarket chip is in it, but not nearly as bad...
I have owned 3 dodges, 2 7.3's, and 2 6.0's, all used to pull the exact same trailer and load i am pulling now.. this truck is not overloaded and should not get hot.....Why would a better head gasket not fix this? All the mechanics tell me that the 6.0 head gasket is a piece of crap......
The Volumizer is a 3 switch chip 0h.p.-50h.p.-100h.p. ...it is made by PDQ...
I was running the 3-stage edge stacked with the superchip or the predator but the edge has no way to turn completly off like the Volumizer does. The Edge was getting everything way to hot when stacked...
The Volumizer also seems to make the most power when on the big shot....