Battery problem
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Freshman User
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Battery problem
This is really making me mad. What could cause a brand new battery to discharge over night? No lights are left on and the Van does not have power windows or anything like that. This just recently started happening and I can not figure it out. I know it is something simple and probably more then one person has had this happen. If any of you could help I would appreciate it.
By the way my family or I have owned Fords all our lives. Mostly Trucks, Broncos, Mustangs, and thunderbirds. Currently my problem is with my 1989 e-250
Thanks,
Gus
God Bless Amercia
By the way my family or I have owned Fords all our lives. Mostly Trucks, Broncos, Mustangs, and thunderbirds. Currently my problem is with my 1989 e-250
Thanks,
Gus
God Bless Amercia
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 2
From: CA Central Coast
Could it have had just a surface charge from the folks you bought it from? Or defective cell from the beginning?
I'd test the cells, put it on a charger till you're sure it's got the best charge it can, then wait another night. If the battery checks out then you can keep it charged, hook up a meter and try pulling fuses one by one to see if the draw continues. That way you might isolate the system in question.
And that's about as far as my knowledge base extends...
I'd test the cells, put it on a charger till you're sure it's got the best charge it can, then wait another night. If the battery checks out then you can keep it charged, hook up a meter and try pulling fuses one by one to see if the draw continues. That way you might isolate the system in question.
And that's about as far as my knowledge base extends...
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I am going to try all the above.
Best case scenario the new battery is bad and I will get another free.
Worst case scenario I can't find the draw.
I was quick to judge the problem and bought a new battery thinking this must have been the problem. So I really don't think it is the new battery. I cleaned the posts and wires well and added that red grease stuff after to ensure it will not corrode fast. I hate electrical, mostly because I dont have the tools. Where is the best place to get a multimeter?
Thanks again for the help,
Justin
Best case scenario the new battery is bad and I will get another free.
Worst case scenario I can't find the draw.
I was quick to judge the problem and bought a new battery thinking this must have been the problem. So I really don't think it is the new battery. I cleaned the posts and wires well and added that red grease stuff after to ensure it will not corrode fast. I hate electrical, mostly because I dont have the tools. Where is the best place to get a multimeter?
Thanks again for the help,
Justin
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Southern MD
Do you have a burned out headlight? My '94 kept draining down in a couple of days. Everything checked out OK.
I happened to go out one night, and noticed a headlight was burned out. I replaced the bulb, and have not had a problem since. I guess a relay or something in that circuit caused the problem.
I happened to go out one night, and noticed a headlight was burned out. I replaced the bulb, and have not had a problem since. I guess a relay or something in that circuit caused the problem.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,448
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From: CA Central Coast
A good hardware store or NAPA store should have decent multimeters. Don't get the cheapest one, get a mid-range. Be sure it has a fuse that'll pop if you screw something up (like I do).
The suggestion of disconnecting a battery cable is a good one...start with one, and if it drains, do it again with the other. I'd start with the negative...if there's still a drain that might indicate a hot wire has gone to ground.
BTW, to stay with the basics...on my old jeep, I went through the new battery, new starter thing and it turned out to be the positive cable has gone green and bad INSIDE the plastic sheathing. The cable ends looked fine and it was only on a suggestion from a buddy that I tried it. Just a thought.
The suggestion of disconnecting a battery cable is a good one...start with one, and if it drains, do it again with the other. I'd start with the negative...if there's still a drain that might indicate a hot wire has gone to ground.
BTW, to stay with the basics...on my old jeep, I went through the new battery, new starter thing and it turned out to be the positive cable has gone green and bad INSIDE the plastic sheathing. The cable ends looked fine and it was only on a suggestion from a buddy that I tried it. Just a thought.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 759
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From: Omaha
If it is drawing the current when it is not driven I would check the glovebox light, hood light, and the trunk light. If it is drawing during the day I would get your altinater checked
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Thank you all that have chimed in, I really appreciate it.
Just an update. I bought a multimeter for around $51 BUCKS AT THE NAPA. it does have mA settings. I was told to disconnect the negative battery cable and set the multimeter to DC A and test at the highest setting first and go down till I get a reading. Then start pulling fused until the reading drops. Does this sound right? I already blew a fuse, but was smart enough to go to the Radio shack and get some
Thanks again,
Gus
God Bless America
Just an update. I bought a multimeter for around $51 BUCKS AT THE NAPA. it does have mA settings. I was told to disconnect the negative battery cable and set the multimeter to DC A and test at the highest setting first and go down till I get a reading. Then start pulling fused until the reading drops. Does this sound right? I already blew a fuse, but was smart enough to go to the Radio shack and get some
Thanks again,
Gus
God Bless America
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well I pulled the negative off and tested with a multimeter between the cable and the post. Something is drawing 12.57 volts. Should I check amps instead since everything pretty much runs on what the battery puts out volt wise? What setting should I put the multimeter on?
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Something is pulling 2.45 on the 10A SETTING
Well Hell, I pulled all the fuses and it stayed constant. I did not have any doors open. I was wondering if I was getting the correct settings so I opened a door to see what is up, and it went to 3.4 so I know it is working. Man I am just going crazy. I have no clue what it could be now.
Well Hell, I pulled all the fuses and it stayed constant. I did not have any doors open. I was wondering if I was getting the correct settings so I opened a door to see what is up, and it went to 3.4 so I know it is working. Man I am just going crazy. I have no clue what it could be now.
Last edited by BornInAFord; Mar 9, 2005 at 07:33 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Wisconsin
draw
OK 2.45 Amps is way to high. It should be about 200 mA or 0.2Amps
To find your draw Connect your meter on 10A setting between the negitive battery post and cable. leave it connected. now pull fuses one at a time until the draw disapears. now you have a idea where to look depending on what fuse it is. Also if none of the fuse are causing a draw disconect the alterater wiring and cable. I have seen alternators cause a draw hope this helps.
To find your draw Connect your meter on 10A setting between the negitive battery post and cable. leave it connected. now pull fuses one at a time until the draw disapears. now you have a idea where to look depending on what fuse it is. Also if none of the fuse are causing a draw disconect the alterater wiring and cable. I have seen alternators cause a draw hope this helps.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
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From: Atlanta GA
Just about every circuit will draw 12.57 volts because your battery at rest should be 12.6 volts and just about everything requires 12v.
Start checking circuits that are always on with the key off. You might have a sticking brake pedal, bad horn relay, bad lumbar support switch, bad cooling fan relay, etc.
Start checking circuits that are always on with the key off. You might have a sticking brake pedal, bad horn relay, bad lumbar support switch, bad cooling fan relay, etc.
