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88 F-150 4X4 XLT Lariat w/5.0 EFI 5 spd (DAILY DRIVER)
86 Ranger 2WD w/2.3L EFI 5 spd to be 351W 4bbl C4 (NEW TOY- DETAILS WHEN FINISHED)
85 Old Cutlass Supreme 350/TH350 Holley 4160,Edelbrock Performer intake, el-cheapo headers, High Energy Cam 270H series cam, 15.588 best 1/4 mile with original 10 bolt 2.41 gears (OLD TOY)
Sorry, my connection became a disconnection when I was posting this.
My 5-spd is leaking fuid fron the top(?) rear, and I heard something about plastic plugs that leak, and I've also heard that the only way to repair this is to replace the shift tower. Is this true? Is there an easier fix?
88 F-150 4X4 XLT Lariat w/5.0 EFI 5 spd (DAILY DRIVER)
86 Ranger 2WD w/2.3L EFI 5 spd to be 351W 4bbl C4 (NEW TOY- DETAILS WHEN FINISHED)
85 Old Cutlass Supreme 350/TH350 Holley 4160,Edelbrock Performer intake, el-cheapo headers, General Kinetics 270H series cam, 15.588 best 1/4 mile with original 10 bolt 2.41 gears (OLD TOY)
There are three (in a row) pop-in plugs across the top rear of the trans. Ford dealer charged my co-worker $60 to change if memory serves. I got to see an M5od transmission laying in a guys shop just the other day. I got a good look at the mystery plugs that make a mess when they leak. I would guess they are just about impossible to see when the trans is mounted. One would have to use the "Braile" system to change them out.
With a little patience, you could change em out.
Chris
You could pull the seat and floormats to access the trans cover but I don't know if you can reach the plugs from there. Lots of RTV silicone works in a pinch too.
You can chage these yourself, but you have to pull the top plate of the tranny. Don't worry, its alot easier than it sounds.
First, remove the bench seat, and the 4 screws that hold down the shifter plate. Next, remove the nut holding the shifter and put it on the other side of the bolt and tighten until the studd is pulled out. Now, you can pull off the shift rod (leave it in neutral). Next pull back the carpet to reveal the removable floor plate. Remove the floor plate. Now, you should be able to see the three plugs on the back of the top-plate. You won't be able to get them out without removing the plate. Remove the perimeter bolts and the reverse connector from the plate. Lift straight up and don't drop it. Remove the three hardened leaky plugs and put in the new soft rubber plugs. Seal the top plate gasket with a small amount of permatex gasket sealer and re-install. put everything back together in the same order you removed it.
That's it. it is really easy and doesn't take any special skills or tools.
I fixed mine recently. Called up a trans supply place, and the guy knew exactly which plugs I was talking about.He informed me that they usually put in steel plugs - "why put them rubber ones back in?" So that's what I did.Used a little formagasket, and tapped them in. No more drips. While you're at it, check the plastic rings around your shifter ball. Remember where neutral is.
What size plugs did you use? I've been wondering about putting steel plugs or even tapping the holes (if possible) and installing pipe plugs. Your response just answered one of my questions. Thanks!
88 F-150 4X4 XLT Lariat w/5.0 EFI 5 spd (DAILY DRIVER)
86 Ranger 2WD w/2.3L EFI 5 spd to be 351W 4bbl C4 (NEW TOY- DETAILS WHEN FINISHED)
85 Old Cutlass Supreme 350/TH350 Holley 4160,Edelbrock Performer intake, el-cheapo headers, General Kinetics 270H series cam, 15.588 best 1/4 mile with original 10 bolt 2.41 gears (OLD TOY)
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 20-Jul-01 AT 01:23 PM (EST)[/font][p]
While you're at it, check the plastic rings around your shifter ball. Remember where neutral is.
Speaking of the plastic rings. Does any one have a part number for these? I will be dropping my tranny over the weekend and would like to replace these while it is out.
Thanks.
Roger Lane
Test Analyst
Sr. Automated Test Engineer
IBP, Inc.
Would these shifter rings be why I have about an inch of 'slop' side-to-side in my shifter? It is solid front to back.
88 F-150 4X4 XLT Lariat w/5.0 EFI 5 spd (DAILY DRIVER)
86 Ranger 2WD w/2.3L EFI 5 spd to be 351W 4bbl C4 (NEW TOY- DETAILS WHEN FINISHED)
85 Old Cutlass Supreme 350/TH350 Holley 4160,Edelbrock Performer intake, el-cheapo headers, General Kinetics 270H series cam, 15.588 best 1/4 mile with original 10 bolt 2.41 gears (OLD TOY)
Don't remember the exact size- approx 5/8" inch- looked like little freeze plugs. Just knocked them in with a mallett and a little formagasket.
As for the plastic rings, a good trans supplier has them, as well as Ford.The parts guy should know about them. Don't know the part#. Both them were in good shape,
even after 230K, but I replaced them anyway.
I was able to put my truck on a lift today at work, and I noticed that the top of the shifter plate was not wet with lube. Are these plugs located under the plate area, or should I be looking more at the rear seal of the trans? It is soaking wet around the area of the transfer case and trans, but it ias wet all the way up, mainly running down the driver side (it is the cleanest from the lube constantly running down it). I don't want to be going after the wrong part, and now I am wondering exactly what it is that is leaking. Any help?
88 F-150 4X4 XLT Lariat w/5.0 EFI 5 spd (DAILY DRIVER)
86 Ranger 2WD w/2.3L EFI 5 spd to be 351W 4bbl C4 (NEW TOY- DETAILS WHEN FINISHED)
85 Old Cutlass Supreme 350/TH350 Holley 4160,Edelbrock Performer intake, el-cheapo headers, General Kinetics 270H series cam, 15.588 best 1/4 mile with original 10 bolt 2.41 gears (OLD TOY)
You can get the plastic rings from the dealer. There are two rings in that surround the ball. Get two BOTTOM rings. The top ring is only sold as part of the top assembly and is expensive, the nice thing is the bottom ring works both ways.
If you pull apart the top shift tower and find two or three metal washer-like things throw them away and just use the plastic rings. The shift feel will be improved 100%!!
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