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hi, i have a 99 f250 sd, 4x4, 5.4L. well, i started smelling my rear driver side brake getting(smelling) REALLY hot lately, so today i got off my butt, and pulled off both rear wheels. well, come to find out, i have a bad caliper on the drivers side. as its mounted, the top piston is stuck and keeping the pad engaged on the rotor. so my question...... what is best to do??? i can rebuild that one caliper myself for about 75.00, or i can get an oem set up with out pads for almost 200.00. the local napa in town can get me a re-man caliper with pads for 105.00 each. now, if i rebuild it, are there any tricks to know? and, should i replace them in pairs, even though the pass side appears to be fine? how crucial is it to just re-do the driver side.... will the brake system balance out? thanks in advance, and sorry this was so long.
Get the rebuilt or new and do both sides. I prefer to get the preloaded from NAPA and have had really good luck on both my own vehicles and company when I work the service rigs. Verify the rotor thickness and runout. 65% of your braking is the front and it's not worth the risk. Getting the pistons ad dust boots back in is a pain and if there is any rust or pits you'll have to replace the caliper so I've always found it better in the long run to just replace them.
thanks.... i just told napa to go ahead and order one...... but i guess i should just have them order both. what do you mean when i should check the runout? since i will be getting all new pads for the rear, then i will have the rotors re-surfaced. what is the correct order for bleeding the system out when i get the new parts installed? would the system balance out if i only changed the one side? i understand that a lot of things should be changed in pairs, but is this the same case? the pass side appears to be fine for now. thanks.....
You HAVE TO replace calipers in pairs. You will develop a pull in all likelihood if you don't, and you will probably start wearing out pads unevenly as well.
When you take the rotors in to get them turned, they will measure them for thickness. They won't turn them if they're under the limit.
When you bleed the system, start with the wheel that is furthest from the master cylinder.
well, being that this is for the rear set, would they still develop a pull? would it just be due to the different clipers having different rates of piston travel due to one being new and one being old?