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The spark plug has fire to it. The fuel pump pumps, there is pressure along the fuel rail. The rotor button turns, and is in time with TDC.
After attempting to crank, the plugs show gas is entering the cylinder.
KOEO code shows an 11. system pass.
The truck was operating normally and after letting off the accelerator, the engine died. I had it started one time after that, but ran very rough and hasn't started back.
Need more info. Year, engine, etc. Check fuel pressure regulator for bad diaphram, fuel comming out of end where vacuum hose goes on. Check negative battery cable connections at the quick disconnect point near the battery. This is the computer ground and will shut down injector action.
2000 XLT Flare Supercab Sport 5.4-Auto-355LS-Tow pkg-Bedrug-Xtang Tonneau
It's an 87 F-150 5.0 Fuel Injection.
I'll check the FPR tomorrow. I have checked the grounds at the disconnect points and they tested OK. The coil, cap and button all test OK. The distributor was removed, cleaned, serviced and replaced w/o crank movement.
I'll test that pressure regulator and let you know.
The fuel rail has 40 PSI with the ignition in the start and run position. By jumping the fuel pump at the DCL connector and letting the pump run 40 PSI is maintained.
The fuel pressure regulator seems to be operating OK. I replaced it 3 years ago because it was creating an overpressure and dumping fuel into the cylinders.
I also verified rotor position with TDC and for the presence of spark.
It doesn't even act like it wants to run. The motor just turns over.
Try a compression test. If you have flooded it bad enough, you may have washed the cylinders and have too low of compression. Test the compression thru all cyl, then squirt an small amount of oil into the cylinders. If there is a noticable difference after the oil, then your rings had a sealing problem. Clean or replace all plugs and try it again. If there is no difference, and it still has low compression, check for blockage in the intake system.
88 F-150 4X4 XLT Lariat w/5.0 EFI 5 spd (DAILY DRIVER)
86 Ranger 2WD w/2.3L EFI 5 spd to be 351W 4bbl C4 (NEW TOY- DETAILS WHEN FINISHED)
85 Old Cutlass Supreme 350/TH350 Holley 4160,Edelbrock Performer intake, el-cheapo headers, General Kinetics 270H series cam, 15.588 best 1/4 mile with original 10 bolt 2.41 gears (OLD TOY)
My 93 f150 is exactly the same.good spark good fuel pressure TDCis correct turns over great trys to fire but won't. If you get any good responses let me know and I will let you know if I have any luck
THis truck was a daily driver. As I let off the gas to turn into the home street, it died. Wouldn't start, but was just missing.
Got it running once since then, but very rough. I did notice some blowback coming through the filler cap then, so I have no doubt I have some compression loss.
The way it happened has me stumped. Was running normally and had passed it's state emmissions test the week before. Then it stalled and hasn't run since.
You seem to have the spark verified. And fuel pressure. So make sure you have injector pulse. Disconnect any injector an hook up a test light between the terminals, crank engine and you will have a flashing light each time that injector is fired. If it is ok then PCM is working. I would then go to common mechanical problems. Timing chain would cause this. If the cylinders are flooded you should be able to remove a plug and see raw fuel on it. Timing chain could cause this too. If your sure chain is not the problem then look at tps voltage, map voltage (in hertz), coolant voltage.
All of these feed info to PCM for fuel control.
2000 XLT Flare Supercab Sport 5.4-Auto-355LS-Tow pkg-Bedrug-Xtang Tonneau
Loosen the disributor hold down clamp and turn the distributor while cranking to see if anything happens. If it starts, but runs lousy, then the timing chain has jumped a few teeth. Tme to break out the tools and replace the timing gears and chain.
make sure all spark plugs are attached perfectly, when i changed mine out i found that somehow two got mixed up or one wasnt attached all the way (they were exceptionally hard to snap on for some reason) if that doesnt work try replacing the plug wires.
Another way to test your timing chain is to take the cap off the distributor and turn the crank with a socket and breakerbar. If you can turn the crank more that 4(?) degrees side to side before the rotor in the distributor turns, you have too much slack in timing chain.
88 F-150 4X4 XLT Lariat w/5.0 EFI 5 spd (DAILY DRIVER)
86 Ranger 2WD w/2.3L EFI 5 spd to be 351W 4bbl C4 (NEW TOY- DETAILS WHEN FINISHED)
85 Old Cutlass Supreme 350/TH350 Holley 4160,Edelbrock Performer intake, el-cheapo headers, General Kinetics 270H series cam, 15.588 best 1/4 mile with original 10 bolt 2.41 gears (OLD TOY)
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