Rear Shackle mount
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Lewistown, PA
Rear Shackle mount
Has anyone replaced the rear shackle mount that riveted to
the frame? Mine is all but rusted away and I'm replacing it to pass inspection.
I was told (and looks like) I'll have to drrop the tank to grind off the
rivets
. Can this be done w/o dropping the tank. Thanks for any help or suggestions.
the frame? Mine is all but rusted away and I'm replacing it to pass inspection.
I was told (and looks like) I'll have to drrop the tank to grind off the
rivets
. Can this be done w/o dropping the tank. Thanks for any help or suggestions.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Spokane, WA
Some guys manage to do it without dropping the tank but I couldn't make it work. You have to have midget hands to get between the tank and frame for holding the nuts on your new mounting bolts. Then you have to get a wrench on there to hold them in place while you tighten it all up. If you think you can reach in there without pulling the tank then go for it. Realistically though, dropping the tank only takes about 5 minutes and will save you a ton of hassle.
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From: Lewistown, PA
Originally Posted by ivanribic
Realistically though, dropping the tank only takes about 5 minutes and will save you a ton of hassle.
to me
New User
Joined: Dec 2003
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I would look int a Mag drill too, I wish I had used one when I changed all the Hangers, The rivets swell out into the hole, so even grinding off the heads means they still don't want to come out. the easiest was to drill the rivet through then tap it out with a punch.
I wish I would have known about mag drills, beacause holding that big milwaukee up there and trying to press it against the heads of the rivets really sucked. you could probably renta mag drill somewhere if you don't know someone with one, I think their were flat spots aplenty to anchor it down on.
By the way, if you haven't seen one, a mag drill is like a miniature drill press with a electromagnet in the base to hold it down to the parts, the benefit being the gear drive for moving the chuck in and out.
otherwise, a plasma cutter used caerfully will really make the job easy.
I wish I would have known about mag drills, beacause holding that big milwaukee up there and trying to press it against the heads of the rivets really sucked. you could probably renta mag drill somewhere if you don't know someone with one, I think their were flat spots aplenty to anchor it down on.
By the way, if you haven't seen one, a mag drill is like a miniature drill press with a electromagnet in the base to hold it down to the parts, the benefit being the gear drive for moving the chuck in and out.
otherwise, a plasma cutter used caerfully will really make the job easy.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Lewistown, PA
I have an oxy/act torch I can use. I thought maybe I could just blow the rivets out with that.
How does the tank come out. I know to remove the straps, but what about the sending unit and fillerneck?
How does the tank come out. I know to remove the straps, but what about the sending unit and fillerneck?
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If you've got access to a torch... Drop the tank, jack the truck up (frame and axle) to take the tension off the springs. Cut off the rivet heads and you can smack the hanger off. Once everything is out of the road you can grind the rivet down smooth and tap it out with a center punch and hammer. Not too bad of a job if all goes smoothly.
The problem with cutting the rivets completly out is if you knick the frame larger than the hole your into drilling the hole out bigger (to get a proper tight fit...)
The problem with cutting the rivets completly out is if you knick the frame larger than the hole your into drilling the hole out bigger (to get a proper tight fit...)
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Posting Guru
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From: Lewistown, PA
Thanx everone, most helpful. 79F250, I got access to a tourch, but no time.
I live on dairy farm, so between that and my day job, time really goes. I was
hoping that this wouldn't be an all day affair because I have the two upper shock mounts in the rear to replace as well.
I live on dairy farm, so between that and my day job, time really goes. I was
hoping that this wouldn't be an all day affair because I have the two upper shock mounts in the rear to replace as well.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Spokane, WA
All it takes to remove the tank is to loosen the clamps on the filler neck (hose clamps), pull the supply line which is another hose clame, pull the sending unit wires (just unplugs) and then the 1 bolt on each strap. That's it. If the tank is close to empty it's not bad at all. Mine was 3/4 full and I still managed it in no time though it was a pain lowering it.
I posted about this a little while back but incase you didn't see it: I've found the easiest way to get rid of the rivets is to grind the heads off and then drill the centers out. As was pointed out you can get into the frame very easily with a torch. Some guys grind the heads off and then use an air hammer to pop the centers out but this didn't work for me. If you're set up right and have the proper tools you can have the tank out, both sides replaced, and the tank back in less than 2 hours. Even if you have some delays it shouldn't be an all day project.
I posted about this a little while back but incase you didn't see it: I've found the easiest way to get rid of the rivets is to grind the heads off and then drill the centers out. As was pointed out you can get into the frame very easily with a torch. Some guys grind the heads off and then use an air hammer to pop the centers out but this didn't work for me. If you're set up right and have the proper tools you can have the tank out, both sides replaced, and the tank back in less than 2 hours. Even if you have some delays it shouldn't be an all day project.
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From: Cleveland, WI USA
Some of us don't have all them there 'fancy' tools like torches and air hammers & stuff.
When I did my 78, I drilled the rivets out one by one. Started with a 1/8" bit and stepped up a size or two til it popped out. I swear it didn't take more than an hour to do them all.
I didn't drop my tank, but I had no bed on at the time so it was easier to get to the nuts. I did have to make sure I didn't use too long of a bit though.
Kevin K.
When I did my 78, I drilled the rivets out one by one. Started with a 1/8" bit and stepped up a size or two til it popped out. I swear it didn't take more than an hour to do them all.
I didn't drop my tank, but I had no bed on at the time so it was easier to get to the nuts. I did have to make sure I didn't use too long of a bit though.
Kevin K.
.