When I get this distributor issue dialed in. I'm going to install a MSD 6A. The local speed shop says to advance the timing to 10 or 12 from it's stock setting of 8. Any opinions?

Also, will that, "advancing the timing that much", require a readjustment of the carb. I have a 86 F250 460 with the "electric Ford/Holley."

Most of my issues with this truck,(though I hear 85&86 were two of their worst years) have been carb related. So I feel I'm going to have to learn carb adjusting, forwards and back. Because I'm sure as hell never going to drive a chevy or dodge. Can anyone give me a few basic carb adjustment tips. Like "Don't listen to the Chiltons Guide." or "Buy an Edlebrock."
I understand the Holleys are better and more adjustable, its just a matter of getting them their.

Thanks,
Vince

 

Well, from what I have read, heard, and experienced; the Holleys' are good carbs with a lot more to adjust than the Edelbrocks'. But, the Holleys' are not a set and forget. Because of the adjustability, they can be tuned to weather and barometric conditions (cold, warm, humid, dry, heavy air, etc.) which makes them a great carb for racing, but limits them a little for the average Joe (like myself). I run and Edelbrock on my 351W and I have never made an adjustment to it. Slapped it on and it runs great. I put in the MSD 6A and I have MSD's adjustable timer in the cab. I run 10-12 degrees BTDC most of the time, but retard to about 6-8 degrees when I tow. That seems to be a good combo. While your at it, drop in MSD's distributor. It is sooooooo much better than the stock.

'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik

 

Thanks for taking the time.
I think I will go with the Adj. and the MSD dist. as of now I have purchased, but not installed the 6A, Blaster coil and Jacobs wires, the speed shop actually recommended them over the MSD, they were the same price, plus they had a "any reason whatsoever" gaurantee. You bring one in, in any condition, the distributor will give you a new one on the spot.
Where did you mount the controls inside the cab. Square,rectangular or round mount?
Vince

 

I just bought the WHOLE MSD package but I bought the ford 9mm wires instead anyway I went to summit racing and bought the whole set but they gave me the wrong distrubutor a two wire instead of a seven. anyway never installed got all the advance springs and weights etc its a billet distributor. if you are interested e-mail me at cpnhgnjnky(No Email Addresses In Posts!).


95 F-150
"alot of stuff"

 

Slikness, what do you make of that last post?

cpnhgnjnky, what city are you in?
what model is the distributor and how much?
Vince

 

I believe the 7-wire is to use with the Ford ignition box and the two wire will plug directly to the 6A. I mounted my adjustable (square) below the wiper switch to the left of the steering column. I got the MSD wires simply to stay MSD, but I like Jacobs warranty. Are they the ceramic tip wires from Jacobs?

'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik

 

slikness,
I bought the "Enery Core" part#400808 with the adjustable boot, instead of the ceramic boot. Hope I don't regret it, after the Doug Thorley Headers are installed.(which is not going to be for a little while yet) Actually, I just remembered I'm going to wrap the headers with refusil, that flame proof, off-white 2" wide, mesh-like cloth.

What does anyone think of keeping wires factory length. I think it is no big deal. For I saw on the jacobs box the pro street wires mentioned they were extra-long for that smooth/clean pro installation look. When you get Jacob wires, you get four wires with 8 boots all ready vulcanized on and 8 90degree boots for the cap. One by one, starting with the longest wire to replace you unplug the old boot and plug on the new boot, run the path, cut it to fit and press on the other boot, very easy. Then the remaining half should be long enough to do your shortest wire. I hardly trimmed, (maybe one inch on three wires) any of my wires. I would just use the extra length to keep them away from the heat. Any comments or experiences?

Slikness, I'm thinking of mounting the adjuster almost exactly the same distance from the column as yours but to the right in that rectangular compartment that is currently holding my sunglass case. I'm right handed, plus my Tektronics tow brake control is over there, but it is right next to the column. So in reality I have the room on the left and it would probably be a shorter run.

I only have a regular timing light. Am I going to need a "Advance" light, with the dial on the back in order to do a really good job?

Also, I don't have a tack installed yet. I have one on order #2306, from Autometer, 2 5/8", 6000rpm. How have the other mechanics in the past adjusted my idle? Do I have to wait for my tach? Is there a temporary setup or item I can purchase that makes it a 1 man job or is it always a two man job. The only trick I've heard of is to put a bowl of water on top of the aircleaner and dial it in until there is the least amount of disturbance(ripples). This is suppose to mean it is running its smoothest.

 

>... the Doug Thorley Headers are installed.(which is not going to be for a little while yet) Actually, I just remembered I'm going to wrap the headers with refusil, that flame proof, off-white 2" wide, mesh-like cloth.<

I put Thorley headers on mine. There is not a problem with the plug wires, you can easily keep them away from the headers. DO NOT wrap your headers!!! It will cause them to burn out in short order since the wrap will trap the heat and burn off the metal. You will also void any warranty on the headers. If you want a nice looking header for a long time, get them ceramic coated. I did get a thermal blanket to wrap my starter and that has worked great.

>I only have a regular timing light. Am I going to need a "Advance" light, with the dial on the back in order to do a really good job? <

I bought a timing tape to wrap around my harmonic balancer. It's a lot easier to see and I can check full advance with a standard light (around 38-40 degrees).

>Also, I don't have a tack installed yet. I have one on order #2306, from Autometer, 2 5/8", 6000rpm. How have the other mechanics in the past adjusted my idle? Do I have to wait for my tach? Is there a temporary setup or item I can purchase that makes it a 1 man job or is it always a two man job. The only trick I've heard of is to put a bowl of water on top of the aircleaner and dial it in until there is the least amount of disturbance(ripples). This is suppose to mean it is running its smoothest.<

I'm not sure what you're getting at here, but I bought a VDO tach for my truck. When you set the timing, you should be somewhere around 600-750 rpm with the vacuum hose removed from the vacuum advance and make sure you plug the vacuum line. The adjustable timer is a little wierd on the dial. You can set your dial to 7 (middle of the scale) and then set your timing to whatever you feel is best and then dial it up and down from their...or I set my dial on 10, set my timing at 10 and then I can approximately dial in the timing with the dial markings on the adjustable timer. However, when you dial down to 6, you are probably only retarding your timing to 7 or 8. You need to play with the timer to really find out how it adjusts the distributor.

Good luck,

'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik

 

S,Thanks for the header tip, all do that. FWIW there is a company called "stage 8", probably www.stage8.com, that sells"
Header, valve cover, carb locking bolts. I have them already on my valve covers and carb, since a number of times I have had to tighten though guys up.

What I was getting at with the idle thing was: To my knowledge you can't possibly know your rpm with out a tachometer. So how have the mech. in the past adjusted my curb idle? By ear?
Also, you need to be in "Drive" at that 600 to 750 rpm. What do you do, block the wheels and put the parking brake on?
Vince

 

NEVER check your timing in drive. It is not necessary or recomended!!! Most mechanics can fairly easily listen to your car to tell if it is idling higher than 1000 rpm, but most mechanics have an rpm meter built into their timing light so they know what rpms you are at when they set the timing.


'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik

 

Slikness,
I feel like I have to defend myself alittle bit so I don't come across as a complete idiot. I wasn't really planning on adjusting my idle by myself, but I wanted to know if others did. You know, if you jumped off a cliff into the jagged rocks below, I'd figure it was good enough for me to and follow kidding.

Anyway here is my lame defense: The big factory Ford sticker right there when you open the hood says:

----------------------------------------------------------------
_ FORD MOTOR COMPANY -
-Set parking brake & block wheels. Make all adjustments with -
-engine @ normal operating temperture, access.& headlights off.-
----------------------------------------------------------------
-Ignition Timing blah, blah, blah -
-
----------------------------------------------------------------
-Fast Idle RPM blah, blah, blah -
-
----------------------------------------------------------------
-Curb Idle RPM- Remove Air Cleaner -
-Adjust Idle RPM by turning curb idle adjusting screw: -
- Manual trans:-800 rpm in neutral. -
- Auto trans: - 650 in DDRRIIVVEE -
-Adjust dashpot clearance to 2.2 - 2.9mm -
-Replace air cleaner -
----------------------------------------------------------------

At first I was, you got to be nuts! This is obviously a two man job, one inside the cab or there is some trick of the trade that I'm not aware off, hence the post. Then I got a brain seizure and said, Well, I remember when I'm in a parking lot and I can't see the parking block in from of me and I put the truck in drive and it doesn't go anywhere. Maybe with the addition of the parking break it will be O.K., but being that I'm renting my house, if something went wrong it would go right through the garage and try to sit on the couch in the den. No thanks. Anyway that was my thought process. Lets forget about!

Look right below my word DDRRIIVVEE, where and what is a dashpot?

 

Which is better? MSD or Mallory. I am in the process of getting a late 80 F-150 and it has I6 with a 4spd. I was going to put my 302 in it but decided to leave alone. Would however like to put a new dist., coil, plugs etc. I don't want to just replace them with plain ones. What would you guys recommend? This I6 has over 100,000 miles on it but still runs strong.