Just recently my '94 EB has been shifting very hard between 1-->2 and P-->R. I checked the tranny fluid and it seemed ok to me, in the acceptable area (maybe a little low but not dangerous). What I'm wondering is what could be causing this. It had happened earlier (2 months ago) but stopped rather quickly. Since then I have changed nor added anything I'm not to sure what it could be.

P.S. My airbag light has also been flashing at me for the past few weeks (3 blinks, pause, 2 blinks) service manual (big red book) says to bring it to dealership but I'd rather see if there's an easier fix.

 

Need some more information so we can help. What year is your Bronco? What transmission do you have?

 

The trans should be an E4OD. Shifts points are controlled electronically by the computer. However, mechanical problems inside the transmission could cause hard shifts. You need to determine if the transmission is having a computer problem or a mechanical problem. The computer can definitely make it shift harder. Those performance chips that people sell, one of the things that they do is reprogram the compter to shift quicker. You said that you checked the fluid and everything; did you change anything electronically that may have affected the computer somehow (or even put one of those chips in)? As far as mechanical parts, there are springs and valves inside the transmission that control the shift points, as directed by the computer. Shift kits that are mechanically installed often change the springs to achieve the desired shift. A broken or worn out spring can cause shifting problems like yours. When you checked the transmission fluid, what color was it and what did it smell like (if anything)? It should be a bright reddish-pink color and not dark brown or black; and it should not smell burnt. The stuff doesn't really have much of an odor, but it definitely should not smell burnt. If it smells burnt then it's almost a given that the trans is going or gone.

If you can't figure it out and decide to bring it to a shop for a diagnosis, just remember this - any used eleven year old tranny will have some metal shavings in the pan. If you bring it in to a shop, and they drop the pan and then show you the pan with the shavings and make a really big deal about and say things like 'well it could last a year or it could last a day,' and shake their heads and all; get outta there because you are probably dealing with a scammer. That's one of the oldest tricks in the book. They will try to scare you into getting the tranny rebuilt, and since you really don't know automatics so well you end up doing it. They get a LOT of people like that. Transmission shops as a whole contain the worst scammers in the auto mechanic industry. Unless the pan has an extreme amount of shavings in it then it's not really a problem, at least not a problem worth dropping $2,000 on. Yes I said $2,000 - the E4OD's are very expensive to rebuild. I have 129K on mine, it works fine (knock on wood) and I want it to last to at least 200K.

Automatic tranny problems are the hardest thing for the average shade tree mechanic to diagnose. Not to mention the computer controlled shifts. However, the computer might be a blessing in this case - if you can pull any codes from it that pertain to the transmission. I am not sure if the computer shows transmission faults, I would think that it would though. So look into that as well.

I am far from being an expert on automatic transmissions. I just gave you some basic information and a couple of hints. Don't make your diagnosis based on my post, but use the basic information to build on and to get a little knowledge of what's going on with your trans. A lot of people get burned by shops rebuilding transmissions that don't really need to be rebuilt, and could have been fixed with a $25 part. They will rebuild it and give you a warranty, but it really didn't need to be done. The VERY dishonest shops will fix it with the $25 part and then paint your transmission real shiny and give it back to you the same way that you brought it in except with the $25 part installed. That's a pretty expensive tranny paint job.

If you end up having it rebuilt one day, make sure you go to a shop that offers nationwide warranties. I would not take it to the guy down the street, in this case, a chain is better. There is also some sort of automatic transmission directory that shops can join. If they participate in the program, then any transmission shop in the world that belongs also will repair your transmission if it breaks while under warranty. You can also buy a rebuilt transmission online and it will be warranteed nationwide, because the rebuilder belongs to the program. If you can swap it out it yourself, then you could save a few hundred dollars an still have a nationwide warranty. They can also ship it with upgrades such as shift kits etc. I don't recall the name of that transmission warranty program, but I am sure that one of our posters here knows it (anybody)?

Sorry for the long post. Automatic trannies can be a nightmare for those who don't know. And I hope that I did not scare you - your transmission probably does not need to be rebuilt. I just don't want to see anyone get burnt by a tranny shop. Some of them are just waiting for fish to swim in and say "uhh, my car doesn't shift right..."

 

Well,
Here's my two cents. I've dealt with replacing 2 E4OD's and working the crap out of the one that's in this one. I have done lots of research and had almost all the mods done to it. What your probley having is some kind of sensor problem. If your airbag light is blinking. You can pull the code. get one of the hayns repair book and pull code. or check on these forms and someone should have posted already how to pull them.
Biggest and the most common fix on the E4oD is called the neutral safety switch. It is located on the driver side of the trans. When it goes out, it will cause your trans to shift had at times and good at others. It is never constant. You can go to www.rockauto.com and find the part. I got mine for 41 bucks and 20.00 shipping (Hawaii). Dealer will cost about 140.00. Just make sure that you draw yourself a good picture of the wiring before you remove the holding clamp thingy.

good luck.
Also always check the transmission fluid lines, send and return coming out of the radiator. they both should be hot after running around for a bit. If one line is not, you have a bad radiator, and replace it now. if you don't you could BBQ your tranny. Been there done that.

 

I couldn't agree more with JBronco. I recently had the computer on my '92 replaced. My e4OD was shifting hard and running bad. I went to a shop that a trusted friend recommended and they did me right. It was around $440 to have the troubleshooting done and computer replaced. I can't stress enough the importance of using a reputable shop. While the shop I used was an independant, they were part of the national association for that industry. Do your homework before deciding on a shop.

 

Wow, didn't think it'd get so many replies so fast. Well when I checked the tranny fuild it was still red and not burnt. As for the computer I've got no idea what or how to check it. I have not added a chip or anything of the like seeing as how this has a LOT more work ahead of it first (new tailgate, need quarter panel plates) so the chip (if I got one) would be one of the last things on the list. I was also wonder could it be that just those clutch pads are going bad?

P.S. 136k miles on the tranny.

 

OK but it still could be a computer problem. I mentioned that to demonstrate how the computer can change the way that the transmission shifts.

The advice about the neutral safety switch sounds promising. It describes your symptoms. I have never heard of a neutral safety switch causing erratic shift problems, but since he said that it happened to him then you should definitely check it out. I would not rule anything out when it has to do with the computer.

 

I'll remeber to check that out when I do my next tune up (wed.). If it is that how hard is it to replace?

 

The neutral safety switch (or MLPS) is relatively easy to replace. There isn't much to removal & installation. The hard part comes when you have to make sure that the wires match up in the plug. Search "MLPS installation" and you'll come up with some good information. Remember to clear the codes after you're done. Good luck.

 

im heading back to the house now. I will post some pics i took of the installation. but first try to pull the codes to see what comes out of that first.

 

[IMG]D:\broncotrans\PANA0003.JPG[/IMG]

 

You need to upload it to somewhere first.

 

I'm starting to think now that it might be a computer problem like mentioned above. It's shifting fine now, not even a day after it began. I'm going to try and pull some codes tomorrow or friday, and it looks as if it's my clockspring that's gone bad as I found out from another thread.

 

I have had similar problems with my 92 EB with a 5.0 E40d it shifts hard between 1-2 and sometimes when I start it will move foward a little. I have already replaced the MLPS and really no change. I was told It could be a sticky valve body and put some good additive in it, but no change. Some days it shifts good and others shifts hard. I have 165k miles on it a just thinking maybe it is going out.


Steve

 

I just noticed an omission in my original post, you guys probably figured out what I meant but just in case, it should read (omission in parentheses)...

The VERY dishonest shops will (charge you for a rebuilt transmission),fix it with the $25 part, and then paint your transmission real shiny and give it back to you the same way that you brought it in except with the $25 part installed. That's a pretty expensive tranny paint job.