Ok, I know some of you guys have replaced the stock autolockers with manual Warns, or some other brand. The other day I noticed that my hubs were getting hard to turn again. So in my infinite wisdom I got out the wrench andf turned. But I actually cracked the plastic ****. Well, the 4 wheel still works, but with the loss of vacuum the ventilation system is out of whack.

My question is this; can I epoxy the little pumice line without doing any damage? This will fix the ventilation system, but it will also no longer "breathe". If not, does anyone no where I can find a used one? None of the Junkyards here have any, and I didn't see it on e-bay.

Thanks in advance.

Jeff

 

I would not think that the **** would cost that much for a new one at Ford. In the future if you spray some WD-40 on the **** it will soak it up like a sponge and the hubs will turn easier.

 

I have a similar problem...My hubs wont turn from auto to lock either. I was temted to use a wrench too. But read on my issue goes a bit further. Hey has anyone had a similar problem? I have a 2000 ford excursion limited, and last night it was snowing here so I went to engage it by turning the lever. The 4x4 lit up on the dash but the rear wheelsjust spun. What an awful drive home. They finnally locked in when I pulled into a parking lot. I drove home. in the drive way I dis engaged it and re engaged it to have the same issue. Today, it worked fine as I drove it to the dealer. ON sat I used the 4x4 to get out of the drive way, no problem. When I got out I turned the 4x4 off and drove on the clean pavement. When I got to the mall, and turned into the parking spot, i felt some cluncking in the steering wheel. I engaged and dis engaged the 4x4 and tried it again, problem was solved. Is this going to be a sign of things to come with this excursion or?? THe original owner had replaced the hubs a a year and a half ago for the same problem, being there was no 4 wheel drive. I only have 74,000 miles on it, its got the v-10 and I love the truck and have had it for a year of trouble free driving. I only use the 4x4 in the snow....These hubs do have the auto and lock positions, but I bought a truck with the auto option so I did not have to get out of the truck and "turn" the hubs. HELP!! any help would be greatly appreciated!

DAVE..

 

I'm kind of having the same problem.

I've got the 2000 X and the writing has worn off of my hubs. I think my auto is failing because when I turn both hubs counter clock wise, nothing happens when I engage 4x4. When I turn both hubs clock wise and engage 4x4 everthing works fine.

Does this mean I have manual hubs and not auto? or maybe vacum lines bad?

Thanks

BigMick

 

BigMack, it sounds like you hubs are not engaging when you switch it to 4x4. Automatic hub locks can be manually overridden by rotating the hub lock control from AUTO to LOCK. Rotating the **** clockwise will switch them to MANUAL. Actually, this time of year, I keep mine in manual (we got a foot of snow today). If the ***** rotate easily, then you have a vacuum problem. Check the vacuum line going into the top of the casting. If it is connected and not split, then you might need new seals (o-ring).

 

actually there is a new service bulletin out for the front hubs, that might fix your problems. But it is always a good idea to move the manual hubs and shift in and out of 4x4 low and high at least once a month need it or not. auto hubs as well.
Jeff

 

Jeff, what does the new service bulletin have to say?

 

Yes Jeff what does this say? Im about to call my dealer in say something. Also will this wd-40 trick help solve the problem with the auto lock option? I hear a clicking and stuff everytime I try to use it, the axel just does not engage...

 

The info I have is for [ 1999 to 2004 F superduty and 2000 to 2004 excursion.

Issue : some 4x4 vehicals may exhbit a hub not engaging, not staying engaged and/or unlocking.
This is due to hub lock damage caused by contact between the front axle shaft and the inside of the hub lock assembly.

service procedure <
1. remove hub lock assembly
2. insert clean rag into wheel hub cavity, to prtect it from contamination.
3. drill out axle shaft pilot hole to 16mm[5/8] diameter and 2mm[0.08] deep, the axle shft does not need to be removed from wheel-end assembly to do this.
NOTE:
opening the shaft pilot hole diameter will provide clearance to the metal tabs, located inside the hub lock, during engagement cycling.
4. remove all contaminates from hub cavity and reassemble.


I hope this helps, but it is always a good idea to activate all 4x4 componates at least once a month, need it or not.

Jeff

 

Thanks for the reminder Jeff !

I do periodically put it in 4x4 when I need a quick getaway from the ricers or hemis.... but forget to manually turn hubs...

went out there and soaked it down with wd-40....
let it sit for a while... then found it was STILL tight...
so soaked it some more...
once it freed, I worked it back and forth spraying wd-40 in it,
now turns easy as spit

 

Got the word that mine are being replaced under my extended warranty. Dealer said when they took them apart the fell apart. Very dirty inside....how the hell does this happen and how do I prevent it????

 

[QUOTE=rozett] Automatic hub locks can be manually overridden by rotating the hub lock control from AUTO to LOCK. Rotating the **** clockwise will switch them to MANUAL. Actually, this time of year, I keep mine in manual (we got a foot of snow today).

Rozette

Help me understand something... I thought that there are 2 settings, AUTO and LOCK. (you also mentioned MANUAL and confused this simple brain of mine) Are you using the term 'manual' and 'lock' to mean the same thing?

I believed that when in AUTO the hubs lock only when 4x4 is engaged via the dash controls. However, when in LOCK hubs are locked all the time and can be driven in either 2x4 or 4x4. Again the selection made at the dash determines if power is sent to the front or not.

I always thought it wasn't a good idea to drive with locked front end when not using 4x4. Is this true?

I also get lots of snow here too but use 4x4 only when really needed. (or when I want to "play" on the less traveled roads) Often the main roads dont require 4x4 with all the plowing and salt. I thought it was better for my truck to leave hubs on AUTO....

btw I do turn the hub controls manually once in a while to keep them loose.. In good weather I do it weekly when washing the truck.. In winter I make it a habit to turn them after a trip to the car wash... I find it easier to remember stuff like this when I have a pattern.. I think my senior moments are happening more often now that I am past my "mid 40's)

Bill

 

Hi Bill..... Yes, I am using the term MANUAL and LOCK to mean the same thing, although I did it by accident. I really meant to use LOCK. But it's the same thing. Once in LOCK, the hubs are engaged and locked to the front axles. I generally run with mine that way all winter. It costs me a little in mileage, but I never worry about whether or not the hubs will lock when I need them. I deliver firewood and quite often I find myself on a snowy/icey incline with a 9 or 10K lb trailer attached. It is not worth the extra risk for me. Besides my wood pile is about 1/4 mile off the road. If the hubs were electric instead of vacuum, I might have more faith in them.

 

I learned to day that it requires 11 lbs of vacume to activate the hubs. Moisture normaly condinsates in the hubs do to heat. its good to use your 4x4 once a week, and turn your auto hubs to lock and back and forth 5 or 6 times to keep them in working order.