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I find most of the folks on in the FTE community exchange information on this site to help each other out. I don't think anyone is throwing negativity towards you and your decision to take your truck to a dealer. I think most people can sympathize with your situation (I know I can!). I also believe most people (including me) are casting a wary eye toward the dealer. They see a hard working guy with two screaming kids in the parking lot and all of a sudden there are $$$$ in ther eyes.
I agree with you Gil. You have to understand though...that...the comment "they saw him coming"...with the inuendo that I'm a fool for taking it to the dealer and paying for their labor costs, rubbed me the wrong way...
Thanks for being cool about it.
I was just suprised at the ratio of labour to parts. $900.00 would be about 10hrs labour on $400.00 worth of parts. I'm just trying to figure out what they could do to justify 10hrs of shop labour.
Anyway...
I feel your pain though (family, career, family, family etc). I personally have two hobbies; golf and vehicle maintenance. Guess which one I enjoy more? I'm better with a torque wrench than a 2 iron but I'll take the links anyday. I still plan on sharing both passions with my little ones though. My 18 month old can already name all the different tools in my roller. One of her favourite "toys" is a spare 5/8" wrench I let her have one day. She doesn't get to play with my MIG though. It's a great family builder (car fun) but you have to watch the four letter blasts!! (that goes for golf too)
Check for coolant leakage around the actuator arm in the plastic heater control valve.
(This has the two small coolant hoses from the block, and the two small coolant hoses to the heater core going to it, plus a vacuum hose).
Try it with the heater control in the defrost position and the off position.
The valves are noted for a high failure rate, although mine went 9 years and 106K miles. Replacement valves are readily available at auto parts stores for $18.00 or so.
Where is this located when viewed from the front and hood up?
I believe in preventative ( as much as possible ) small things like this I like to change before they break. I may even replace the hoses at the same time. What do you think?
Thanks
FordExplo99
Viking 2005
Usually relying on my ford cd shop manual, I come to find that it will not read (blue text in most file folders)
Gives only a bit16 error -
Anyway with my ac going out a week ago a noticed shift roughness and an intermittent 'check engine' light with engine surge of 15mph at idle- well I was in a disheartened mood to say the least - while these symtoms were slapping me upside the-head...at the same time one rear break indicator was sratching out a horrible tune to beat-the-band-
Hundreds in breaks and rotors later and I still had to address the other symtoms.....finally after all these tell-tail signs my Temperature gauge flew into the red and would have pinned out,had I not cranked my heat. Well armed with only what I could find online I began to search until I found Viking2005's very insitefull input on Running Hot - Very good and thanks much for putting this down- Having changed many in the past-I really could not believe all the symtoms a simple thermostat change could cure on my 99 ExplorerEB.
Originally Posted by Viking2005
A neat way to confirm if thermostat is bad is to see if your idle increases once the truck has reached operating temperature. I found out the hard way, that Ford put some code in the EEC V system, that if the engine temperature gets too hot, that the EEC V will increase the engine rpm at idle (from 600 to 1500) and also prevent your AC from comming on to keep the engine running cooler. It does work. I just wish they had it in the manual.
Glad you found my post helpfull. This site is a pool of knowledge on Ford Exploreres. So the more users that post their experiences, the more information available to all.