Hello

I have an 02 Expedition and the tie rods and so forth are not greaseable. I bought a needle for my grease gun, however do i go throught the boot or do I try to slip the needle under the boot. Please advise.

Wes

 

Either way you might do more harm than good. You definately don't want to puncture the boot. If I had a choice I would try to raise the boot up and shoot the grease in then pry the boot back down. They use a spring clamp to hold the boot in place and create a seal. They're kinda snug, but if your careful it can be done.

 

I always wondered why Ford elimated the grease fitting on common suspension parts? While your '02 Expedition is still relatively new, how about in the year 2013 with 150K or more? That is a lot of wear. Is this what "Built Ford Tough" means? ...

 

Ford's idea has merrit. Some people can't even get the oil changed, let alone lubricate the steering and suspension. Besides greasing all that stuff and having grease oozing out can be a real mess.

 

I believe that a properly designed and sealed U joint and tie rod end will last as long as the old style ones did with regular grease and maintenance. In 15 years you may have to replace them, but more than likely you would have to change out one that had been greased every few months.The Napa stores all over the country were selling parts (and a lot more grease) long befor Ford started using sealed joints.

 

well from what i have seen the boots on the sealed joints rot and crack and the grease drys out. Once that happens the joints fail. They last about 60,000 to 80,000. I replaced my sealed ones with MOOGs and they are greaseable. at least when the boots on the moogs rot I can still grease them and shove out all the old dryed grease. you can't do that on the sealed ones because there isn't enough room inside of the sealed ones to put grease in. The moogs have a huge pocket on top that holds the grease.........

 

Thanks for the reply. Anyone who thinks Ford has the customers best intentions in mind, when they do things like make non-greasable parts for the front end are crazy. Its all about repacement parts, parts, parts. Don't get me wrong I am a Ford man but little things like that irritate me.

Wes

 

I replace as many with fittings as I do without.

 

Just think of how many automatic transmissions (of all makes) would have lasted, if every transmission had a drain plug? Even with not changing the filter, simply by draining the old ATF out, and replacing with fresh ATF would help, especially those trans with metal screen / filters. Just a thought...

 

It's more of a case of customer awareness. Most people aren't dyi'ers when it comes to thier vehicles and take it to someone to have maintenance or repairs performed. A drain plug would make it easier and more convenient for the technician, but not the customer. When was the last time you flushed your brake system or changed the differential fluid? Not many people do unless something breaks or needs to be replaced, but many manufacturers recommend servicing at specified intervals.

 

Lifetime is the lifetime of the joint or balljoint until it fails. Do you think manufactures want their vehicles to last 200-300,000 miles? How long do plastic people keep their "Bank owned" plastic vehicles? Manufactures are in the business to sell vehicles not extend their life or miles. Wake up! I ran the U-joints on a 69 PU 843,000 (not the joint on the rearend) with lubes every oil change which was 3,200 miles and this was with a 13 qt oil pan. I don't beat a cold motor but run 'em hard when up to temperature. New is progress?
Carl....=o&o>....

 

I drilled and tapped my ball joints,to accept zerk fittings,may not help ,but it makes me feel better as I pump in the mobil one syn grease!

 

350z;
With lifetime or factory sealed joints they do not have grease grooves ground across the ball. The groove allows grease to get across the joint to the grease sack or balloon on the other side of the joint if its a greaseable joint. If its a lifetime joint and you add a zrek it takes a pair of Vise Grips for tube welding to dislocate the ball out of its socket, then grease can pass to the sack or balloon. Fill until the sack has a bulge then stop, don't overfill.

Carl....=o&o>....

 

You have your choice. You can mess with greasing them for some long period of time and then replace them, or just drive it that period of time and then replace them.

The sealed joints we have nowdays are really great parts. It is a psychological change that you have to go through before you realize that sealed joints are as good or better than greasable joints. I made it past that psychological challenge many years ago. My MB 240D went a half million miles with sealed joints and NO trouble.

Another example is the ball joints on the spindles of my 78 Ford F150 4X4 that I bought new. These joints are sealed, have never been replaced and are still as tight as a banjo string. The steering linkage parts are greasable and I have kept them greased over the years. So which ones do I like the best? The ones that I haven't had to remember to grease, that's which ones.

Resistance to change is a NORMAL human trait. Rest easy and don't worry about those sealed joints. When you start poking around with a needle to grease a joint that was designed to be a sealed unit, you will most likely SHORTEN the life of that joint by allowing dirt to enter, or a reaction of the combination of greases that were designed to remain sealed and who knows what kind of grease from your gun.

Just be happy that you don't have to worry about greasing it anymore.

Have a great day,
Doc

 

If it's such a strain to grease joints and wipe off the excess just think how much time you can save by not doing oil changes also. At over 843,000 on one truck with factory joints all original but one U-joint. Grease on!.

Carl....=o&o>....