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Took Oil Cooler To International Had It Tested It Was Fine. Also I Replaced I Injector And Cant Get It To Stop Leaking Where It Screws Into Block Torqued It To 35 Like They Said Any Ideas Would Be Great.
87 6.9
If the cooler tested good, install new o rings and gaskets on the bases and slam it together. If the injector is leaking where you say it is, it not together right or you forgot to install a new crush washer in the bottom. The torque is 50 lb/ft for the injector itself. The nut on top of it is 35 lb/ft and new o rings are needed on it beneath the "new" plastic cap and as a matter of fact, all new orings and caps should be done at once, and if you pulled all the injectors out, all new crush washers. Make sure you removed all the old ones first from the bottom of the bore. Hope this gets you up and running. DONT CRANK ON THE STARTER TOO LONG, TO FILL THE SYSTEM.
Thanks For Responces The O Rings Were Replaced When International Tested The Cooler They Put Them In . The Injector Is New The Orings On Injecter Are New Plastic Cap Is New Washer On Bottom Is New But Yet It Still Leaks Out Of Threads When I Rev The Engine.
So your not getting a seal on the copper washer/head. You need to remove that injector and double check that the old washer is not still down in the head. If it is, remove it and start over with a fresh copper washer.
The bottom of the injector hole needs to be clean and flat, in order for the copper washer to seal properly. There is a tool (injector bore cleaner) used for cleaning the sealing surface. If there are pits and/or ridges on the sealing surface, you'll need the tool. I've been able to get most clean using a 3/4" Copper Pipe Fitting Brush. Used by plumbers to clean copper fittings prior to sweating them together. Availible at any hardware store