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Any 10-30 should do. I would avoid anything heavier as it may be to 'sticky' and break the oil pump shaft. A 89 or better octane with some lead additive and keep an eye on the heat guage.
Thank you very much for responding about oil and gas choices. I know current products are greatly different than in the 40's, 50's etc., so I wanted to check with others with their experiences. Thanks again.
Any 10-30 should do. I would avoid anything heavier as it may be to 'sticky' and break the oil pump shaft. A 89 or better octane with some lead additive and keep an eye on the heat guage.
That's a new one on me, I have been working on and around automobiles for 48 years and have never heard of an oil pump shaft failure problem with Flathead engines.I always thought that is what the pressure relief valve on the oil pump was for. To bleed off the excess pressure.
Thanks for the come-back about oil. I am not quite ready to start my engine, but soon, I hope. I have been told if I run a detergent oil it will loosen sludge deposits and they will plug things up. Non-detergent oil is safer as far as that goes. "Back when" I used to run about any oil I found in flatheads with no regards for brand, weight or additives, but now that I'm a lot older and want this engine to last a while, I thought I'd try to run good, safe oil.
Here's what I've found from recent experience. Any grade gas will work with or without additives. Our regular here is 87 octane - the flathead V8 just loves it. I used additives when I started driving the flathead, but quit buying them after several guys I respect said it wasn't necessary. Since then I've run a 48 F1 for 3 years of daily driving including several long distance trips.
Oil - If your engine is a fresh rebuild, use whatever oil you'd use in any other engine. 10W30 or 10W40 is what I use. If you're starting an old engine that has set and you don't know what kind of crud might be inside, then I'd use non-detergent for the reasons you mentioned.
ON the lead thing - my dad owned a gas station when I was just old enough to get in the way. These flatheads were developed before lead was added to gas to 'cushion' the valves. The lead was mostly a sales gimmick to increase the price of fuel. Then a few decades later they increased the price of fuel to leave the lead out - imagine that! Flatheads run fine today without lead.
Ok, sense we are on this discussion about oil. I just got my 51 F1 226 6 cylinder back on the road. I have not done any work on the engine, just installed a rebuilt carb and distributor. The truck had been sitting for at least 15 years prior to my purchase. I have been driving it to work, about 10 miles a day. I'm really impressed with the performance of the 6. My question is on the PVC system. should I convert road draft tube and install a PVC valve, and run a hose to the manifold. Or just leave the Draft Tube and use it as designed. My dad was always for converting them, but my thoughts are if it's not broke why fix it. Just drive it, and enjoy a bit of the good old days.
Most guys convert to the PCV to help stop the chronic oil leak on the garage floor. My thought is to keep your existing system, and keep the filters clean, like with each oil change. Replace the filters if they look compromised. I should listen to myself. I have a 54 Ford tractor and I haavent cleaned the oil baffle/filter mounted on the valve cover for a long time.