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I'm installing a PErformer RPM on my 390 and the directions say to not use the gaskets on the ends, fill the gap with rtv silicone, is this the way you guys would recommend, thanks for the info.
My machine shop, that also does a world class FE block racer, recommended that I just use plenty of silicone front and rear. Pressure in the engine even with venting, over time, pushes the gaskets out and then comes the leakage. Add extra in the corners but not so much that it is oozing into the inside. Silicone coming off and going through oil passages aren't something you'll enjoy. It worked fine for me. I even used that trick on a 351 Windsor because we all know they love to leak from the same area (front and rear of the intake).
OOPS, one more thing. Use plenty of alcohol on the mating surfaces so there is no oil and the silicone (Black RTV) can bond. Then, let it 'skin' for about 15 minutes so the curing process gets underway before tightening and torqueing.
I tried the silicone RTV after reading the Edelbrock instructions that came with my Perfromer RPM. That was on my 360. It didn't work. Oil still leaked. I used plenty. The problem with RTV is that it tends to shrink a little when it dries, then cause leaks, particularly on large gaps like the intake.
Here's how I got my intake to seal on the 390. I used the cork end gaskets, and glued them in place with Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket. So far, no leaks.
would permetex high temp ultra copper gasket maker take care of this?
i was going to use it to fix an exhaust manifold lead, cause the bolt i know for sure aren't going to come off in one piece. I was going to wirebrush the exhaust manifold and clean the surface as best as i can before applying the permetex then apply a thick layer over the small leak in order to ensure a proper seal and a good hold, then let it sit for 12 hours and then start it to check for leaks.
I used cork gaskets that came in the gasket set with a lot of high temp RTV. After a year and a half there is no leaks. Even though the insturctions say not to use gaskets, use them, it is guarnteed to leak otherwise.
OOPS, one more thing. Use plenty of alcohol on the mating surfaces so there is no oil and the silicone (Black RTV) can bond. Then, let it 'skin' for about 15 minutes so the curing process gets underway before tightening and torqueing.
But Keep in mind, to NOT use plenty of alcohol before you start. If so, yer wife may catch you napping under the hood.
Guys, for a long time the debate lingered over end gaskets or no end gaskets. This thread really seems to be one-sided....Use them!
I'm sure that I will when I get back into mine. I think I even have set of the cork gaskets in the shop. I wish this thread would have happened before my last reassembly....
why don't you use gaskets with some silicone in the corners and then after you run the motor and it gets warm retorque them, then you can get a good seal.
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