Full Tilt Front End
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 189
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From: So California
Full Tilt Front End
I have been considering installing a full tilt front end on my 56 F100. Does anyone have instructions on how to accomplish this? How is the hood assembly held down in its closed position? Do you use the original sheet metal or is a fiberglass front end a better method. I would also like to raise & lower the hood using actuators or hydraulics. What can all of you suggest?
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Northwestern PA
Welcome to FTE you'll find many helpfull people and much vaulible information.. Such as this link from one of our ford truck Gurus.
http://www.clubfte.com/users/jniolon...gfulltilt.html
Good Luck
Mike
http://www.clubfte.com/users/jniolon...gfulltilt.html
Good Luck
Mike
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, So Cal
SCD -
I have seen both steel and fiberglass full-tilt fronts. I think each has their pros and cons. The sheet metal is heavy, but it is robust. The fiberglass is less expensive and more available, but (depending on the mfr) less stiff and more fragile.
As to latching, I have seen many ways also. My tilt hood uses a cable-operated trunk latch as a hold-down. I saw a glass front-tilt that did the same. I have also seen lock pins, solenoid locks, etc. I think the hold-down and hinges are pretty much whatever you want. John Niolon's article is a very good approach for the hinge method.
Electric (linear) actuators are very popular and do the job easily. Some (J. Niolon above) have used convertible top motors to raise and close the clip. I think some kind of actuator is a must, especially if you stay with the heavier steel clip.
My suggestion would be to Keep up your research and design your own methods. You know, a little of this, a little of that and put your own "stamp" on it. I very much like to do things a little differently than the mainstream, primarily just because it's unique. It is a big part of the fun of working on these trucks for me.
Welcome to FTE!
I have seen both steel and fiberglass full-tilt fronts. I think each has their pros and cons. The sheet metal is heavy, but it is robust. The fiberglass is less expensive and more available, but (depending on the mfr) less stiff and more fragile.
As to latching, I have seen many ways also. My tilt hood uses a cable-operated trunk latch as a hold-down. I saw a glass front-tilt that did the same. I have also seen lock pins, solenoid locks, etc. I think the hold-down and hinges are pretty much whatever you want. John Niolon's article is a very good approach for the hinge method.
Electric (linear) actuators are very popular and do the job easily. Some (J. Niolon above) have used convertible top motors to raise and close the clip. I think some kind of actuator is a must, especially if you stay with the heavier steel clip.
My suggestion would be to Keep up your research and design your own methods. You know, a little of this, a little of that and put your own "stamp" on it. I very much like to do things a little differently than the mainstream, primarily just because it's unique. It is a big part of the fun of working on these trucks for me.
Welcome to FTE!
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 189
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From: So California
mt54
Do you have a source for your actuators?
Randy Jack
I like the fact that the stock sheet metal is more robust, and my sheet metal is in fairly good condition. The tilt front ends that I have seen in person typically have the back of the fenders cut & bolted to the cab. Both pieces of the fender have sheet metal added to brace & dress up the cuts, like is shown in UK1050's gallery. There must be some templates out there so the wheel does not need to be reinvented.
Thanks to both of you for your comments
Do you have a source for your actuators?
Randy Jack
I like the fact that the stock sheet metal is more robust, and my sheet metal is in fairly good condition. The tilt front ends that I have seen in person typically have the back of the fenders cut & bolted to the cab. Both pieces of the fender have sheet metal added to brace & dress up the cuts, like is shown in UK1050's gallery. There must be some templates out there so the wheel does not need to be reinvented.
Thanks to both of you for your comments
New User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: michigan
autoloc sells acuators. they are electric and can handle up to 800lbs on some of them. the key is to figure out the travel needed and the hinging point to make it the smoothest and easiest to operate. I am in the process of doing this to my '52 using all the original steel, but I want my bumper to go with it also. this is getting to be a real tricky thing to do. I am also going to use a cadillac trunk mechanism to release and to lock the unit back down. will have pictures posted at a later date.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
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From: Riverside, So Cal
SCD -
When I was researching this last year, I ran accross a company in Canada that makes linear actuators that will handle 440# in push or pull. They have 6", 9" and 12" stroke 12V units that move at 1" per second. The 9" stroke unit has a 16" collapsed length. The company has developed micro-sized actuators and they have changed their website (http://www.firgelli.com/) to emphasize those, but call them and ask for the
12V linear actuator, 6", 9" or 12" stroke.
Firgelli Automations
14125 30th Ave, Surrey, BC V4P 2J4
Tel: (604) 785-6585
Fax: (604) 541-6575
When I was researching this last year, I ran accross a company in Canada that makes linear actuators that will handle 440# in push or pull. They have 6", 9" and 12" stroke 12V units that move at 1" per second. The 9" stroke unit has a 16" collapsed length. The company has developed micro-sized actuators and they have changed their website (http://www.firgelli.com/) to emphasize those, but call them and ask for the
12V linear actuator, 6", 9" or 12" stroke.
Firgelli Automations
14125 30th Ave, Surrey, BC V4P 2J4
Tel: (604) 785-6585
Fax: (604) 541-6575
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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scd, i just got done yesterday getting my tilt front end to work. i used my original sheet metal and put rollers that hinge on the front end of the frame. i then got 2 -10" linear actuators from autoloc which is probably overkill, and fiddled with them till it lifted equally and easily. i didnt have to cut fenders cause i had the rollers roll forward 4" then hit stops which make it roll up and over. works great. took a while to figure it out but its doable. ill get some more pics soon. good luck.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 189
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From: So California
fish-albuq, I would love to see some pictures. I saw this done on a Ford coupe several years ago. It was very impressive! Thanks for your response, and I will be watching for your pictures.
old and in the way
Joined: Jul 1997
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From: Lovely Hueytown Alabama
Parts Nerd Extraordinaire
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,392
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From: Western NY
@1953f100panel , this thread is nearly two decades old... A lot can happen in that time and many of those who participated in this thread haven't logged in for a decade or so...
There are a few different current offerings for tilt hoods for the F100 which could be adapted to your panel: https://www.google.com/search?q=53+f...+tilt+hood+kit
There are a few different current offerings for tilt hoods for the F100 which could be adapted to your panel: https://www.google.com/search?q=53+f...+tilt+hood+kit