Bumper towing?
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 81
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From: oregon
Bumper towing?
OK I have a 77 F150 with a 300 I6 with headers, offenhauser intake and 4 barrel with a C4 and a 9in rear end. My question is on the bumper towing capacity. It has an aftermarket bumper and the bumper says it can handle 8000lb towing and 800lbs tongue. I looked at the underside of the bumper and it is solid metal unlike the factory ones that are just hollow stamped steel. So will the bumper be safe to tow? Is there anything else I should check?
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 364
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From: Hartland, MI
Milon? You wouldnt pull over 1k lbs w/o equalizer hitch???!!!?? I have pulled 73-79 ford trucks on trailers for years w/o equalizer and all has been well. I estimate total weight at 5,500-6,000 lbs on most tows....... I do not use a bumper though. This sounds like a tough bumper. If its mounted to the frame well using grade 5 or better hardware I would see no problem is towing several thousand pounds with it. 8k lbs would be more than your f150 would want though.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 81
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From: oregon
I want to pull a trailer with a truck on top of it, but it sounds like it might be a good idea to get a hitch. The bumper is pretty tough, I guess my biggest concern is if it is connected to the frame enough. I can't image why they would rate the bumper that tough if it wasn't right?
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 517
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the bumper sounds very heavy duty, but with a f-150 you should be very careful w/ load equalization(tandem axle a MUST) and trailer braking calibration. To get a tandem trailer just right you almost have to have a receiver hitch set-up, and buy the right drop hitch for it.
The rear springs on my 77 4x are pretty soft so if yours are too the drop hitch should be calculated after tougue load is applied(not eazy)
I may be over-analizing this but towing on the highway is serious so be safe.
The rear springs on my 77 4x are pretty soft so if yours are too the drop hitch should be calculated after tougue load is applied(not eazy)
I may be over-analizing this but towing on the highway is serious so be safe.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: oregon
If I need to get the receiver hitch I will, but why is it almost necessary for a tandem trailer? I have loaded the truck up with about 2500lbs of tile in the bed before and it did ok but I only went 10 miles at about 45mph max. The rear didn't seam to sag much. What about those helper springs they sell, are those any good? Is there any reason that your springs would be softer then mine, as mine is 2wd? I want this to be over analyzed as its cheaper to do it right then to fix what breaks IMO. What other models and year of cars/trucks/vans have hitches that will fit my 77 f150? Would I need a stage 4 hitch, I think they are the ones that have a 2 inch receiver. What about trailer brakes? Could someone explain exactly how the added brake pedal works with trailer brakes? Our tent trailer came with a pedal that is suppsoed to be mounted on top of the stock pedal with a clamp and somehow wires into the trailer. We have never used that pedal and never needed to. Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,392
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From: Cab of a truck
If the trailer has brakes, use them. Look in my gallery at the 77 F150, scroll down, and see what happens when you dont have them. You wont be able to stop that trailer when you need to. Mine, was on the trailer, the 78 pulling it didnt have the brakes hooked up. Lost control, and everything flipped. I wasnt driving, but I am now a firm believer in trailer brakes.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 364
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From: Hartland, MI
You need to get a trailer brake controller and use a trailer with electric trailer brakes. I have never seen a crazy extra pedal brake controller or whatever you are decribing, sounds very old and outdated. Modern systems work much better and are very easy to wire up. As for the hitch a receiver style hitch is needed because you can get different heigth ball mounts to make the trailer level when your pulling it. This is important so both axles/tires/wheels have equal load on them. You would want a Class 4 hitch to do the towing you want. Most all hitch makers Draw-Tite,Reese, etc make hitches for your truck. No truck will have one from the factory. You may luck out and find out on a truck at a junkyard, just measure the width of the frame rails and the junkyard one and yours if they are the same it will bolt on. Also some hitches require the removal of the undertank spare tire system.
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Elder User
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Originally Posted by 77traded
If I need to get the receiver hitch I will, but (1)why is it almost necessary for a tandem trailer? (2)I have loaded the truck up with about 2500lbs of tile in the bed before and it did ok but I only went 10 miles at about 45mph max. The rear didn't seam to sag much. (3)What about those helper springs they sell, are those any good? Is there any reason that your springs would be softer then mine, as mine is 2wd? I want this to be over analyzed as its cheaper to do it right then to fix what breaks IMO. What other models and year of cars/trucks/vans have hitches that will fit my 77 f150? Would I need a stage 4 hitch, I think they are the ones that have a 2 inch receiver. What about trailer brakes? Could someone explain exactly how the added brake pedal works with trailer brakes? Our tent trailer came with a pedal that is suppsoed to be mounted on top of the stock pedal with a clamp and somehow wires into the trailer. We have never used that pedal and never needed to. Thanks
1)Ever play on a teeder-todder as a kid? A single axle will be overloaded w a /truck on it
2)most 1/2 tons will drop some w/ a 200lb guy jumps on the tailgate
3)helper springs are fine to counter tied old springs but you still can't overload your wheel bearings(this is why HD trucks have full floating axles)
-Dale
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,782
Likes: 221
From: Huntington Indiana
fed law says that trailers over 2000 capacity must have working brakes. If for some reason you get in an accident and they wasn't working, you could be held accountable.
And I definately would go for the tandem axle. because if for some reason the load shifts you could either be real heavy on the rear if shifts ahead and light on the front end. or if shifts back- the rear of your truck could be off the ground.
And I definately would go for the tandem axle. because if for some reason the load shifts you could either be real heavy on the rear if shifts ahead and light on the front end. or if shifts back- the rear of your truck could be off the ground.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: oregon
Ok I will see if I can find a hitch at the wrecking yard and a tandem axle trailer is what I will use. I definately understand the brakes part. I weigh about 175 and I can get the back of the truck to move a little bouncing on it but not more then an inch of travel. Is there anyway that the factory springs where replaced with stronger ones? How could I check. Oh and yes the trailer brake system I was describing was pretty old.
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2004
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The bumper attachment to the frame is the real issue. True story, years ago I was towing an 84 scirroco driven by my wife with a 64 brand c pickup. Aside from probably having the wrong vehicle in front everything was going well until we let slack get into the towstrap. With a little jerk the bumper came completely off the truck. To this day my wife refuses to help if anything needs towing.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,148
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From: Seneca, SC
some of these new bumbers can take what you throw at them, and as for the dwonforce on your rear end, I don't know how big the trailer is, but if you can shift it so that the weight is as much on the trailer as possible then you will help with the leveling. Try backing the truck on, so the motor is on the side away from your tounge. Obvoiusly don't go overboard with this, but it will help with the rear rings sagging and you looking at the sky.