as i was repacking the front bearings on my 84 f 150 2 wd, i noticed that on the passenger side the outboard pad on was worn alot more than the inboard one. And since i took everything apart and redid the bearings, it pulls to the right more than before, and last night as i got home from drivin on a long windy road where i needed to use the brakes alot, the passenger side wheel was so hot it burnt me when i touched it. and i noticed a little smoke comin from the wheel. Is there a way to adjust the front calipers? I'd be much obliged at any help.

 

Go ahead and get some rebuilt calipers. They are only like $12.00 each. When you go to put the new calipers on, scrape and clean the mounting surface where the caliper mounts and then put a THIN smear of HIGH TEMP grease on that area. Your caliper only has one piston, so when it applies and the pad hits the rotor, then the caliper slides in the bracket till the other pad hits the other side of the rotor. If the caliper housing is stuck, only one pad will make contact. When you took the calipers off, did you push the piston back up in the caliper housing any? Alot of times, this will cause the piston to stick, because it usually rusts behind the piston, and then when you push it back, it hangs up in the rusted caliper bore.

 

I agree with frankin2 12 bucks is nothing.You know when your calipers are cashed when this occurs,to verify condition of them...I'll bet when you put a "c'clampon them its hard to turn in ,another sign.But even more important....sometimes the brake hoses can act as a one way check valve...leaving pressure on caliper even when brakes are released.to verify...push brake pedal a couple of times ...then open up bleed valve on cal;iper without brakes appied....is there still pressure????Ford hoses do this more often than other makes.GOD BLESS

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 11-Dec-01 AT 00:31 AM (EST)]Unequal caliper pull repair methodology:

If everything is hydraulicly right, the major problem is always going to come from rusted caliper slides!

FYI: NEVER use plain old moly grease on brakes! The heat generated by the braking action busts it down into nothing but a carbon deposit...

Use LITHIUM (also known as "Plasti-Lube") grease exclusively, it won't break down.

Also, on your nuts bolts and fasteners in that area, it pays to get some Anti-Sieze compound and put it on the threads...

There are specialised blends of lithium grease made just for brakes, but I wouldn't waste my time. I have always used straight lithium grease on brake rubbing points and caliper slides, as well as in the wheel bearings themselves because I want that extra bit of assurance that nothing is going to turn to crud.

And now for a short story -

One fine day at a car shop I used to work at, the Boss decided to replace a bearing on the bottom of a washing machine at home.

He used moly grease to lube it, and it ran for about an hour bfore it SIEZED UP TIGHT! That was when he noticed the specification for Lithium grease on the bearing SPECIFICALLY!!!

Does this give you some idea of how long that stuff lasts?

I hope so, and me personally I think it's the best, man.

And it's only two bucks for a tub of it... (Not 'tube' - TUB)
You can also find it in an aerosol, some places


~Greywolf sends