converting to electronic ignition
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From: Dallas Ga
converting to electronic ignition
Does anyone have the info on how to swap a points distributor with a later electronic model? I have the distributor, wiring harness and box. I need the info on how to hook up to the box. Thanks
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I need to know if this diagram will work for my project also. I have a 69 F100 that had the point type distributor, and I installed the motor out of my 86 F250 my problem is I am not sure what all i need to keep off the 86 to make the electronic ignition work in the 69. I recently rebuilt the 86 302 and installed the new distributor and want to switch the 69 over to work with the electronic ignition
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From: Virginia
Yes, the above diagram will work fine.
You should have all the wiring from the box to the distributor. You can steal that off the 86, and it will be plug and play.
Your original 1969 coil + wire should work fine. It should already have the resistor, and also probably has the wire going to the starter i terminal too.
The only wires you will have to worry about are the white wire and the red wire to the module. The white wire can be easily added to the starter relay s terminal.
The red wire might be a little harder to run. If you happen to have a idle solenoid for a AC system on your 69, then the wire that fed the solenoid will probably have 12 volts anytime the key is in run, and you can tie into the solenoid wire for the red module wire. Otherwise, you may have to run a new wire from the module to either the fuse box or directly to the ignition switch. It just has to be hot with the key on to power the module.
You should have all the wiring from the box to the distributor. You can steal that off the 86, and it will be plug and play.
Your original 1969 coil + wire should work fine. It should already have the resistor, and also probably has the wire going to the starter i terminal too.
The only wires you will have to worry about are the white wire and the red wire to the module. The white wire can be easily added to the starter relay s terminal.
The red wire might be a little harder to run. If you happen to have a idle solenoid for a AC system on your 69, then the wire that fed the solenoid will probably have 12 volts anytime the key is in run, and you can tie into the solenoid wire for the red module wire. Otherwise, you may have to run a new wire from the module to either the fuse box or directly to the ignition switch. It just has to be hot with the key on to power the module.
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From: Virginia
I just saw a mistake in my above post. An anti-dieseling solenoid on the carb would work for a 12v source. One that came on just to increase the idle speed for the AC of course would not work if it only had 12v when the AC was on.
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Dave
I have what seems to be another problem I run the white wire to the s side on the starter relay and found a place on the fuse box that is hot when the key is in the run position, but now when I turn the key to the on position the motor starts cranking instantly, also I am using the coil off the 86 because the 69 had no motor or tranny in it when I got the truck, also it seem like the motor is not firing any suggestions ??
I have what seems to be another problem I run the white wire to the s side on the starter relay and found a place on the fuse box that is hot when the key is in the run position, but now when I turn the key to the on position the motor starts cranking instantly, also I am using the coil off the 86 because the 69 had no motor or tranny in it when I got the truck, also it seem like the motor is not firing any suggestions ??
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From: Virginia
Try another module. Someone a long time ago had the cranking problem you have and it ended up being the module. You could take the white wire back off to see if it quits doing it. If it does, it must be the module sending power over to the "s" terminal(it shouldn't do that).
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Try another module. Someone a long time ago had the cranking problem you have and it ended up being the module. You could take the white wire back off to see if it quits doing it. If it does, it must be the module sending power over to the "s" terminal(it shouldn't do that).
Dave
I disconnected the white wire and still when I turn the key to the on position the engine still cranks any other ideas I may try before I pull what little bit of hair I have left out
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From: Virginia
It's rare, but some guys were having problems with their starter relays being wired backwards inside. See if the correct wires are in the correct place on the starter relay(the small wires). If the wire that goes to the coil + for resistor bypass was on the terminal that pulled in the relay, then that would cause your problem.
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Dave
Disregard my last post i have the problem solved with the engine cranking when i turn the key to the on position, But now it seems to not be firing i used the coil from the 86 with the cap the wires run thru so my problem may be there somewhere any suggestions?????
Disregard my last post i have the problem solved with the engine cranking when i turn the key to the on position, But now it seems to not be firing i used the coil from the 86 with the cap the wires run thru so my problem may be there somewhere any suggestions?????
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Dave
I finally got everything figured out on this old beast. forgot to run wire from coil to i side on starter relay as seen in the diagram i want to tell you many thanks for all the help i really do appreciate it.
Thank you
Bob Spears
I finally got everything figured out on this old beast. forgot to run wire from coil to i side on starter relay as seen in the diagram i want to tell you many thanks for all the help i really do appreciate it.
Thank you
Bob Spears
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Dave seems i have another problem after converting over to electronic ignition. would you possibly have a wiring diagram that shows where the wires coming off the voltage regulator connect ? something keeps running my battery down even though it shows the system is charging.
Thank You in advance
Thank You in advance
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From: Virginia
If you are running a voltmeter or ammeter guage, it was wired like this.
If you are running a "alt" or "gen" light in the dash, it will be wired like this.
If you want to see if you can find the drain, hook a testlight up like this. And then pull fuses till the light goes out. If it never goes out, you can pull the alt wires off and see if it goes out.
If you are running a "alt" or "gen" light in the dash, it will be wired like this.
If you want to see if you can find the drain, hook a testlight up like this. And then pull fuses till the light goes out. If it never goes out, you can pull the alt wires off and see if it goes out.