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In a 1980 351 Bronco, can someone please tell me what to look for with a test light (sharp probe style) from the wires between my blue connector electronic ignition and the distributor (with the magnetic pick up). The pick up failed last year, and I replaced everything before someone here told me what to look for. Now I have a similar symptom (no spark) but I think it's in the harness. I can find diagrams with the wire colors, but not how each is expected to appear in proper operation. ~ALSO~ Can this ignition be swapped for a more reliable mechanical point distributor? What year and model motors would work best (and be availible salvage)? I'm really tired of this solid state failure rate. Maybe its just my harness or connectors, but I need to know what each wire should be carying in a functional state to track it down. Thanks! Eric
power on the red/light green wire that goes to the coil, when the key is in run and in start position.
power on the white wire going to the blue connector module in start position only.
power on the red wire going to the blue connector module with the key in the run position.
I've never tried this, but see if when the truck is cranked, the green wire coming from the coil to the blue connector module, should have power that blinks on and off on your test light.
I don't know how to test the signals from the dist to the blue conn module, but just check all connections. Knock on wood, I have never had one of these ignition systems fail. All in all, they are noted for being reliable, even though you keep having trouble. I would resist putting a points system in, unless it's a last resort, since the electronic has a much hotter spark.
I would tend to look in the same place again (bad magnetic pickup)...I don't trust the motorcraft parts...my mag pickup was bad from day one....but don't go backwards to a points system (nothing but trouble and trouble often)...I got tired of my ignition problems and went all MSD...awesome system and no failures after 3 years (king of pricey, but better than sitting dead on the side of the road waiting for a ride from someone driving a ch**y)
Thank you sooo much! this is just what I needed. Once again, this site has pulled my chestnuts out of the proverbial fire. Your response jogged my memory too. The procedure for testing the blue magnetic pickup is very simple, so easy that I recommend it before removing anything like the coil or module for testing. Three wires enter the distributor at the base. The bottom greasy wire is black, goes to ground, and is not integral to the coil pickup. The other greasy wires are both side by side at both the distributor base, and the connector. They are purple and orange. >>>A good pickup will have continuity with a resistance of approx 300 (50-1K) ohms. Failed will show open .<<< Easy to test with an ohm meter. The white you mentioned that has power only when cranking seemed to bypass my pickup when I had this problem before. I would get spark on one cylinder when releasing my key from cranking (very confusing). I wonder... Would a jumper to this wire trigger my ignition to fire sufficiently to limp home in an emergency?