Ok, I have found the Ball Joint Step by step picture tutorial ( http://www.off-road.com/ford/bigbron...balljoint.html ). What it says you need in the begining is

"Special tools you'll need include a locknut spanner ($10-20), a 1 5/16" wrench, and possibly a ball joint separator, aka pickle fork ($5-10). A 2-lb mallet or similar is also helpful, a grease gun, and maybe some snap ring pliers."

Later in the document it says

"Ok, on to the lower ball joint. Loosen it's nut using a 1 1/8" wrench."

I went to Sears and bought a 1/2 drive 1-1/8 socket, since that is what shows in the picture. Now my question is about the 1-5/8 "wrench". Do I buy a socket or a wrench? Sears had the 1-5/8 socket but only in 3/4 drive. I don't want to start pulling this apart until I know I have all the right tools. Up until this point the biggest size I had was up to 1" stuff, mostly sockets with a few big wrenches. I just don't want to buy any tools I won't need. I have everything on his list but the 1-5/8 stuff. I don't own any 3/4 drive tools and would hate to fork out cash for one 3/4 ratchet for one time use.

Can anyone please confirm a complete list of needed tools?

Any feedback is apprieciated.

Luke

 

By doing the ball joints would I be able to get to everything else this kit replaces?

http://broncograveyard.com/products/...%20rebuild&sy=

I am also buying sloted rotors off broncograveyard.

Thank you :-)

Luke

 

Luke I'm sure your going to have to torque the ball joint nuts,wheel bearings etc. so I would go with the
1-5/16" socket, instead of buying the 3/4" ratchet you can buy a 1/2" to 3/4" adaptor for about $5.00 at Sears. Do you have a torgue wrench big enough for when you start reassembly. If not you may be able to rent one from the auto parts. If you ever have to remove your pitman arm you will need the 1-5/16" socket to torgue the nut back.

 

I have Westward deep impact 1 5/16 socket that fits a 1/2" drive. They are out there. Westward is also life time warranty. This keeps all your tools in the 1/2 drive range. I also never use a 3/4" drive on my truck. That is just looking to break something. I can torque everything with my 1/2" drive. I have done the ball joints on my 88 and on the 79 recently. Personnally I never use a pickle fork. Instead I put a decent sized prybar between the linkages and then while putting downward pressure on the tierod, hit the knuckle where the bolt is going through with a fair sized hammer. This shocks the steel and the tapered bolt pops out. You'll need the socket with the four **** in it to take the inner hub nuts off. The outside one is tourqued. Then there is a washer with a spline. Pull that out with a magnet or small hook. The inner nut is just finger tight. Remember that when you put it back together.

Now the hub that the wheel bearings ride on is really tight. Then tend to rust in. I use my hub puller that goes on a slide hammer. After a half dozen shots it pops right off. Otherwise you can use an air hammer and work it out. That is probably the toughest part of the whole operation. The axle shaft will slide right out of the axle once the hub is off. Take the nuts off the ball joints and then you can use a c-clamp style puller to push them out. Or I just give them a couple slaps with a hammer and the whole piece drops off. The ball joints come out easiest with an air hammer, or a press or hammer. Use what you have cause this isn't something you'll do all the time.

Hope at least some of this makes sense to you. Good luck.

Don