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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 05:43 PM
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Cool Need Help

I purchased a '75 F150 (390) back in January and it had an exhaust leak when I got it. Well today I went and got the gaskets to fix it and when I started removing the bolts on the manifold the first one took a little work but it came out. The second one however broke about 1/4"-3/8" under the head of the bolt. Its just a Hex Head 3/8"-7/16" grade 5 bolt. I am looking for suggestions on how to get the rest of this bad boy out so I can change that gasket. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. I was told to check with the guys in this forum.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 07:22 PM
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From: Lacey, WA
Hi,

Unfortuntly you have came across a common problem with FE heads. Broken manfold bolts.

Please excuse my typeing skills right now as me and Jack, (Jack Daniels) have been discussing life after 40 for the last hour.

There just is not enough room for you to get at the broken bolt with a drill and an easy out. You will have to pull the head and either take it to a machine shop or use an easy out on it.

Sorry for the bad news. Go ahead and spray each of the remaining bolts down with a pentitrant so that they will hopefully come out without breaking.

Lee
 
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Old Feb 18, 2005 | 09:26 AM
  #3  
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If you've got a right angle drill, or know someone who does, you should be able to get in there with a short bit. As stated, drill, then use an easy-out.

Also as previously stated, BE SURE to use penetrated lubricant on the rest of em. People have there's preferences on lubricant, so here's mine. http://www.mwdonline.com/Scripts/ShowPR.asp?PUBCODE=012&ACCT=002033&ISSUE=0305&RELT YPE=PR&ORIGRELTYPE=EC&PRODCODE=3550&PRODLETT=A&ISS UEMONTH=05&ISSUEYEAR=03&RPTID=SHOWPR&CALLFROM=INFO

When you are all finished with removing the bolts, do yerself a favor an run a tap through the threads. Be sure to use your "preferred" lubricant and don't be affraid to run it through a couple/three times through each hole. Then, get yerself some Grade 8 bolts and use a anti-seize product of your preference and install the bolts. However, ther have been some guys here on FTE that prefer to use Stainless bolts. I personally haven't.(Dread the thought of drilling them out, if they ever broke) Talk to them and take yer pick.

Once you've finished, start er up and take er up to running temperature. Shut er down then re-tighten manifold bolts. This will help in a good tight seal.

Mike
 
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Old Feb 18, 2005 | 09:29 AM
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I have found a left hand drill bit usually to work better than easy outs.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2005 | 10:51 AM
  #5  
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Hey guys I've got a good right angle drill that I'm gonna try. The problem occurred on the passenger side of the engine so I have some room but not a whole lot. If the heater box wasn't in the way I'd be good to go but oh well. Swift.....not to worry about the bolts man. I worked for an industrial and construction supplier for 2 years. That was my first thought when I looked at the bolt head and saw it was a grade 5 bolt. I'm not sure about the stainless either. I mean if you want a strong bolt go with a structural bolt. I don't know if you could find a structural bolt that small. But I'm sure they are made. For people that don't know stainless steel will rust. The grade 8 bolt and anti-seize is your best bet. Thank you guys for all the suggestions. I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2005 | 11:34 AM
  #6  
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If pulling the head is you only option...rather than mess with an easy out,grind the bolt off, and with a drill press (can be done by hand if your carefull) drill the bolt out, helicoil the threads (stainless) and use stainless bolts, with anti-seize. Any corosion will happen between the dis-similar metals, (the threads and the head) and you should never have a bolt break off again
 
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Old Feb 18, 2005 | 12:23 PM
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Good SS will not rust some of the cheep stuff will thats why I carry a magnet with me when I buy SS fasteners at a hardware store. Most of the washers you will be able to pick up with the magnet as well as some bolts. Marine supply places are a good bet. hey will "rust" as you say it they are cut off from oxygen. Say like screwing some boards togeather and then fiberglassing over the fasteners they will corrode
 
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Old Feb 21, 2005 | 11:32 PM
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we can argue this all day man. But I will agree to disagree.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2005 | 11:36 PM
  #9  
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Hey guys lee was right no luck with the right angle drill. Not enough space. Looks like I'm gonna have to pull the head. I soaked the rest of the bolts with some Komatsu super penatrating oil over an afternoon and had no problems. Is there anything I need to know about pulling that head that a Haynes manual will not tell me??? I really appreciate all the help and advice!
 
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Old Feb 21, 2005 | 11:51 PM
  #10  
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Real quick something else I found while taking out the manifold bolts. On the driver's side of the engine all the bolts were 3/8" bolts but what was weird on the passenger's side there were two 3/8" bolts and two 5/16" bolts. Not sure what the stock size is supposed to be. Just seems odd. I know the motor was rebuilt back in '82 so I am guessing someone must have done some extra work. I dunno.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2005 | 08:47 AM
  #11  
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Stock size is 3/8" coarse thread(USS).
 
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Old Feb 22, 2005 | 09:59 AM
  #12  
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Then whats up with having two 5/16" bolts in there?
 
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