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Hey everyone I have 86' F-150 that I just completly restored the body and repainted it myself with my dads help(used to paint for a living). Anyway a couple of weeks after I started driving in I noticed bubbles on the rear wheel wells. So...I sanded those spots off and realized we missed some pin holes in the metal where it started to rust on the back side. I didnt want to weld in new wheel wells after I had already finished the truck so my dad gave me a suggestion. He said take a punch and dent those tiny holes in and fill them in with duraglass, and repaint it. I did, and a couple of weeks later the bubbles re-appeared. I have since done that method couple of more times realizing that the water is still coming in through those same pin holes. Does anyone have any suggestions on fixing this? It drives me crazy since the whole truck is perfect except for those areas, and I just dont want to install new wheel wells yet, maybe when I get from from school. Hope someone can help...thanks.
Never done it, only shooting from the hip here, but if you have a MIG can you put a tack in the hole to fill it, then refinish?
Maybe others can say this is a good or bad idea.
A MIG may help if the metal is sound, but it seems that with what you have found so far, you will likely burn holes everywhere you try to weld. The best fix as you already know is to patch with new metal, second best (temp) fix is to use a water resistant filler followed by epoxy primer on the front and back side of the repair. Both methods require all the rust to be removed on the front and back side of the repaired area and then sealed with epoxy primer when the filler work is done. If you try to fix it from the front side alone, you will likely be patching it every few months.
i think your problem is that water has got in to any body filler you have and will keep worikng its way out till its dryed up. Is there body filler in that spot??? If so you need to sand it down and put new stuff on there. then repaint .
I am first to admit I am a "novice" painter at best. However, sometimes we learn best from others mistakes. I had a number of bubbles in my paint after shooting my truck. They seem to be concentrated in the flat areas (top of hood, top of fenders, etc.) of the truck. After alot of research, and questions (much of it here) I determined my problem was "solvent pop". I began painting my truck in Feb and had purchased a "faster" reducer because of the cooler weather. I painted the rest of the truck later in the Sping when the weather was much warmer. Apparently, the subsequent coats were drying before the previous coat had sufficiently flashed and the solvent was working up through the paint. Also, I believe the "flat areas" caused the paint to lay there and not flow as efficiently as on the sides where I didn't have this problem. I had to resand the entire front clip and fenders and repaint. Used a slower reducer, paid close attention to P sheets for proper flash time, made sure I didn't lay the paint on too thick and it eliminated the problem.
if you are using auto paint it take atleast 24 hours before it has cured enought not to bond with new paint. So for the next 90 days or so you solvents then work you way up and out. thats why you can wax a new paint job for awhile. So if its cold and you are painting over other new paint it could happen. but you might look in to what did you use to clean it before the paint job. silicon will cause fish eyses along with any ohter patrolium based product. what we need is more details on where and what was done to those ares. what typ of paint prep was done?? Did he use auto primer not just the carap from schucks. he could be having a chemical reaction form non caompatable paint and primer. We just need more info
IMO you are getting moisture from behind. Had this problem with the same truck Where the outer wheel opening and the inner panel meets is a dirt and water catch-all. I took a hole sow and put 3 holes 1 1/2 " on inner panel close to the lip to wash and clean out this area did repairs used same holes for spraying undercoating to seal area then put rubber body plugs in holes that can be removed for cleaning later on. this worked for a couple years but I sold the truck.