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Old Feb 16, 2005 | 01:44 PM
  #1  
t0ny78's Avatar
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any small engine mechanics?

that can tell me head bolt torque and how to adjust valves on a tecumseh 18 horse twin cyl ov691ea tvt691? thanks
 
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Old Feb 16, 2005 | 02:00 PM
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Double check those model and spec numbers for me and I'll see if I can find the info. I am not seeing that model in my manuals. How old is it?
 
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Old Feb 16, 2005 | 02:05 PM
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Never mind-found it.
I'll send ya an email in a few minutes.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2005 | 02:23 PM
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Okay-can't send you an email because you have elected not to receive them so we'll try this:

Cylinder head bolt torque: 230 in lb/19 ft lb
Valve lash .004" both valves
Tightening order on heads:
If you are viewing the cylinder head from above with the spark plug hole on the left, the tightening order is as follows:
#1 @ 3 o'clock
#2 @ 11 o'clock
#3 @ 7 " "
#4 @ 1 " "
#5 @ 9 " "
#6 @ 5 " "

Valve lash as follows:
Piston at top dead center
Feeler guage measurement between rocker arm and valve stem
"Set the valve lash with the engine cold, the piston at T.D.C. compression stroke with both valves closed. Insert a .004" feeler guage between the rocker arm and valve stem. Adjust until a slight sliding drag is felt. Hold the rocker arm stud using a 7/16" wrench or socket while using a 1/2" crowfoot to tighten the locknut to 120 in lb of torque. Rotate the crankshaft at least one full turn to check pushrod movement and valve lash. Repeat for other cylinder head assembly."

Hope that helps. If it works, dish me some reputation point, brother!
 
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Old Feb 16, 2005 | 02:59 PM
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last summer while school was out i worked as a small engine mechanic going to next summer to.

If you have any questions PM me and i'll try to help you out.

DT
 
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Old Feb 16, 2005 | 03:06 PM
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BTW: Although not specifically stated to do so, I suggest you step torque the bolts in 3 or 4 step intervals. Follow the pattern at 60, again at 120, again at 180, then final torque to 230.
If you knew what step torque meant, I apologize. Just don't want to see all your work to to waste on account of a cracked/warped head or unevenly compressed head gasket.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2005 | 03:11 PM
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remember everything on these engines is in INCH POUNDS not ft/lb
 
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Old Feb 16, 2005 | 05:03 PM
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Now there's a heck of a mental image -

Theres a HUGE difference between inch and foot pounds! And almost all small engines are made of alloy...
 
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Old Feb 16, 2005 | 05:19 PM
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well i just don't want him to have a head bolt snap on him.lol
that is a b!tch. and those rods if they are over torqued will snap like a tooth pick.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 06:38 AM
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My insructions clearly give both the inch lb and ft lb head bolt torques. But your reminder is valid. Several years ago I had a high school student who probably shouldn't even have been in the smalll engine repair class because "he knew everything already". We did our unit on torquing bolts and conversions etc. Taught 'em how to look up the specs in a manual. Out in the shop we go! Mind you, I remind students of important things like torque values at the beginning of every class. So there is is, preparing to put the head back on an "L" head B&S engine. If I remember it was probably a 12 hp engine. Cyl head torque about 180 inch lb. So I'm observing the class and he catches my eye because I see him heading toward his bench with the ft lb wrench. So I just watch him. Sure enough he puts the ft lb wrench on the first head bolt and starts wrenching. With very little effort, considering the length of the wrench, he proceeds to strip the aluminum block at the the first head bolt. The bolt is just spinning freely. OK-I know what you are thinking: I am a professional educator and I should have prevented him form making this mistake. In my defense, I did educate him repeatedly on the matter. He simply chose to look at his Summit catalog during class everyday instead of taking notes and doing the troque problems assignments. This is how he chose to be educated.....tha hard way.
So anyway, I figure he'll give himself a dope-slap and get the right wrench now. But no, he proceeds to do the same to bolt number 2! Now we have about 3-4 other students watching him and laughing, but he is oblivious. I finally stopped him when he put the wrench on #3. When asked, he tried to tell me that the wrench was defective.
We helicoiled the 2 he stripped and everything was ok, but I do believe he would have gone all the way around that head if I hadn't stopped him.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 09:58 AM
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thanks all for everything. i rebuild outboards for a living so iam aware of the basics.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 03:21 PM
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ya'll have classes like that at your school!! I had to learn all of the engine skills my self and from my dad who is an engineer.
The best we have is carpentry it is fun and we get to build what ever we want. But we have no ag or autoshop and we are all farm kids at my school.

But our school system gave the inner city schools ag. Nothing like going on a field trip to during school to help out the other school put up the rafters and seeing some baggy pants kid doing the Ghetto lean on a Newholland TC45.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by t0ny78
thanks all for everything. i rebuild outboards for a living so iam aware of the basics.

can you tell me why my 30 horse johnson spits water out the exhaust and bubbles from the water intake and will only run for a few seconds
 
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Old Feb 18, 2005 | 01:49 AM
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Torque This

It' s been known that the Rolls -Royce engine builders never used torque wrenches in the early days ..they all had to use different length wrenches for the correct bolt or nut they were tightning. and and their training program was quite long.... years of training was required to be of journeyman status... Leonard
 
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