Floorboard Woes
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 123
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From: South Georgia
Floorboard Woes
I recently obtained a nice cab fro my 56 f100. The only problem is that it needs a new floorboard. I'm trying to save a few bucks so I thought this could be an easy fix. Maybe just cut out some 1/8" or 16 gauge steel and reinforce it an voila- no will ever know since it will be covered with carpet. My question is...What is an inexpensive way to replace your floor and it be as stable as a pre-formed patch panel?
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 354
Likes: 1
From: australia
are'nt the pre pressed floor sections available over there cheap anyway?, through much trial and error i have found it works out cheaper ( generally) with body stuff to buy of the shelf, we recently made a new floor for a chev truck, putting the swage lines in is easy, getting rid of the stretch marks isn't, if u had to do it great, but since no one is manufacturing time, why waste it making what is on the shelf some where?
just a thought
cya...gary
just a thought
cya...gary
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, So Cal
Onion -
I guess it depends on how much of the floor you need to replace. The preformed panels are swell. It sounds like you are talking about patching over the existing floor. Hopefully, the patch wouldn't involve the tranny hump.
I don't see a problem structurally with doing what you want. I wouldn't use anything thicker than 16 gage (.06) thick. Most of the cab is 18 gage (.050) and the floor gets a lot of its strength from the formed beads in it.
Just be careful what you are trying to weld to. Rusted and thinned material will just blow out with the torch heat. Welds on rust are no good. You need clean parent material to weld to. You might think of patches over the existing floor attached with pop rivets.
Good luck!
I guess it depends on how much of the floor you need to replace. The preformed panels are swell. It sounds like you are talking about patching over the existing floor. Hopefully, the patch wouldn't involve the tranny hump.
I don't see a problem structurally with doing what you want. I wouldn't use anything thicker than 16 gage (.06) thick. Most of the cab is 18 gage (.050) and the floor gets a lot of its strength from the formed beads in it.
Just be careful what you are trying to weld to. Rusted and thinned material will just blow out with the torch heat. Welds on rust are no good. You need clean parent material to weld to. You might think of patches over the existing floor attached with pop rivets.
Good luck!
New User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
I'm in the process of replacing the floor on my '59. I used 1/16" wall square tubinjg to build a frame under the floor. It ties into the cab mounts and bracing. I plan on using 18ga. on to of the frame. It's a cheap and easy fix and no one will ever see it anyway.
old and in the way
Joined: Jul 1997
Posts: 5,917
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From: Lovely Hueytown Alabama
