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I got a 93 Aerostar and well the problem is when you apply the brake the right turn signal lights up, on the dash and out at front and back lights. If the right turn signal is flashing and you apply the brake it stops flashing and just lights up.. Any answer? I have check both the rear and front marker light and the bulbs seem to be ok, neither are burned out.. Please help.
Check ALL the bulbs, keying on the right side. Side marker, front and rear. If all are good, check the sockets they fit into, then the wiring. Sounds like a short circuit to me. The tough part is locating it.
I got a 93 Aerostar and well the problem is when you apply the brake the right turn signal lights up, on the dash and out at front and back lights. If the right turn signal is flashing and you apply the brake it stops flashing and just lights up.. Any answer? I have check both the rear and front marker light and the bulbs seem to be ok, neither are burned out.. Please help.
Before you do any more troubleshooting, go buy you a couple of brake light bulbs and replace them. In a dual filament bulb, sometimes one will break and jump to the other filament. Both filaments will then light up, but will bleed back current into the other circuit.
If that doesn't fix your problem, then it is time to do your troubleshooting.
Before you do any more troubleshooting, go buy you a couple of brake light bulbs and replace them. In a dual filament bulb, sometimes one will break and jump to the other filament. Both filaments will then light up, but will bleed back current into the other circuit.
If that doesn't fix your problem, then it is time to do your troubleshooting.
I agree, just replace the bulbs. They don't last forever....
The Headlight switch is the **** on the left side of the dash. You know, the one that you pull to turn the headlights on and off. I'm pretty sure all the major lighting goes through it. They have a history of melting and burning. If it has melted,it could be shorting.
If Ford wired the switch in these vans like they have in other cars of the same time, then all of the current to lamps flows from the power source, through the switch and then out to the lamps rather then using a relay to handle it. The switch actually directly controls the hot current going to the lights. This tends to be hard on the switch itself and it has negative side effects on light output because of the voltage drop that occurs through the switch and all of the wiring required to run from the battery to the dash and then back to the front of the van again.
I've had to replace headlight switches in several vehicle because they burn out because of this. I've also rewired most of my older vehicles to use a relay to control the power to the lights, which makes the dash switch a sort of remote controller. I'll probably do the same thing with my van when I get the chance so I can run higher wattage bulbs without risk of damaging the harness or the switch...
Without looking at the wiring diagram I'd say you have an open ground. Check to see of the ground pin in the bulb socket has continuity to ground.
If you loose ground with the dual filament bulb the power will go through the brake light back up the turn signal line. That is why the turn indicator in the dash lights up.
With the turn signal on and the brake light on you have power at both side so you get nothing.
Anyway this is without looking at the diagram. Check both the front and rear lights on the right side.
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