Big Problems
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Freshman User
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Big Problems
I hopped in my 1994 4x4 F150 5.0 with a E4OD tranny the other day and run into some trouble. First off, the tranny wouldn't go in reverse. and spit and sputtered in drive for a minute. The sputterin quit, but the backin didn't get any better. Then about 4 miles from the house, i look down and notice I had no oil pressure. No big deal I thought, sending unit is bad. WRONG! The engine began to peck and knock about a mile from the house and I limped in the driveway. Does anybody have any ideas on what could be wrong with my truck? I am suspecting that the tranny is done and I will have to replace it which is no problem becuase I have one in the garage, but what has made the engine go knocky? I am suspecting the oil pump or even the drive gear for the oil pump. ANYBODY WITH ANY IDEAS PLEASE LET ME KNOW. THANKS
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Glen Burnie Maryland
Sounds like you hit the nail (s) on the head. You could also have rod/main bearings that are done for also (this is the knocking). Pull them both and give them a freshening up.
If the top end is ok (compression is good) then you could (if you're a cheapskate and or a hell of a hurry) just throw a crankshaft kit in it and go on you're merry way. HOWEVER! If ya got the money, time, and another vehicle you can drive in the meantime, tear down the whole engine and freshen everything up. Hone/bore the cylinders, align-bore the block for the crank AND the cam, go with new bearings everywhere, new rings, new pistons, have a valve job done on the heads, replace the oil pump and such other parts as needed. You'll be good for another 100-150,000 miles.
Or find a place that does engine swaps and have a new(read rebuilt/remanufactured) engine installed. A little bit more $$$ but the warranty is better.
Larry
If the top end is ok (compression is good) then you could (if you're a cheapskate and or a hell of a hurry) just throw a crankshaft kit in it and go on you're merry way. HOWEVER! If ya got the money, time, and another vehicle you can drive in the meantime, tear down the whole engine and freshen everything up. Hone/bore the cylinders, align-bore the block for the crank AND the cam, go with new bearings everywhere, new rings, new pistons, have a valve job done on the heads, replace the oil pump and such other parts as needed. You'll be good for another 100-150,000 miles.
Or find a place that does engine swaps and have a new(read rebuilt/remanufactured) engine installed. A little bit more $$$ but the warranty is better.
Larry
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Freshman User
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you know the more i think about it, it wasn't a knock like a rod knocking, it was more of a valve tappin. It didn't run much longer after the knockin come along, so maybe it could be a valve started tappin. I am thinkin, and i have been lucky before in a situation like this, that I change the oil, and the knockin will go away. WHAT DO YOU THINK?
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Glen Burnie Maryland
Valve tappin and rod knock sound suspiciously similar. If the performance of the engine went south with the noise and the oil pressure went south at the same time, then the engine took a dump, then you got BIG PROBLEMS!!! Bearings will do this all of a sudden and you'll be left on the road with no ride.
try and start it tomorrow. If it doesn't build oil pressure in 5-10 seconds, take off he oil sender and see if you get oil flow with the engine cranking. If not shut it down and pull the pan at least.
Change the pump, CLEAN the SCREEN, and check the pan for metal shavings. If there are shavings in the pan then you can pretty much go ahead and pull the engine.
From the way you described the symptoms originally I'd say that the oil pump finally doesn't have enough ooomph to counteract the slop in the bearings and can't build enough pressure to get to the lifters. Pull the sender and try cranking the engine. If you don't get anything substantial then pull the pan..
try and start it tomorrow. If it doesn't build oil pressure in 5-10 seconds, take off he oil sender and see if you get oil flow with the engine cranking. If not shut it down and pull the pan at least.
Change the pump, CLEAN the SCREEN, and check the pan for metal shavings. If there are shavings in the pan then you can pretty much go ahead and pull the engine.
From the way you described the symptoms originally I'd say that the oil pump finally doesn't have enough ooomph to counteract the slop in the bearings and can't build enough pressure to get to the lifters. Pull the sender and try cranking the engine. If you don't get anything substantial then pull the pan..
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,447
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From: Littleton, CO
You could always pull the distributor and run the oil pump drive shaft with a drill. See you have any oil flowing to the top of the motor by pulling a valve cover or looking in the fill hole for oil movement. If not, then you have your culprit. How is your fluid level in the trans....
--Mike
--Mike
