On the 99 up trucks you only have to cut the down pipe between the bend and the trans cross member not at the top like the 94 to 97. none of the other step are needed om the 99 up trucks because a down pipe path was built in the fire wall. Yiou can see it well on the right side of the trans hump

 

Well I went to Home Depot and got a sawzall, and now my stock downpipe is in two pieces. The 5" system went in with a little effort here and there and everyone was right. The aftermarket dp is much better and was easy to install. The v-clamp was a little challenging so I had to get the wife out to help but other than that no real issues.

To think that Midas here in Leesburg wanted $450 to cut out the old dp, install and weld my 5" exhaust. Yeah it took me a couple of hours and I had to go out and buy a sawzall but even with all of that I still came out ahead, even if I take it back to be welded (which I won't cause they wanted an $90 just to weld it up). Heck for that I could almost get a cheap Arc welder at Home Depot do it myself. Lucky for me the father in law is a retired class A welder so I might buy him a couple cases of beer and help him weld it.

Tomorrow night I will install the shift kit and HX mod. Afterwards, I will give a rundown of SOTP performance. Take care and thanks everyone.

 

Now that all sounds like you got things going your way dude. You not only come out ahead of paying someone do this for you, now you have the sawzall for other projects...Trust me that saw is a great thing to have around with a good assortment of blades for various things. I use mine weekly. Look forward to reading how the rest turns out for you...

 

I'm glad it worked out for it'd not a bad job amd just have fatherinlaw just put a 1 inch tack at each joint to keep any thing from moving you don't need to weld it soild

Steven

 

Lagerhead,

Agreed not sure we could weld it solid anyway....its pretty tight. Not a whole lotta space left to work around the exhaust, but damn it sounds awesome. If I had it to do again I would go with the 4" exhaust but I can now add tons of power without worrying about the exhaust system.

Along those lines.... If I wanted to add nitrous, propane or methanol water injection, Do I need to change out the injectors and fuel pump?

 

Mike , Your truck has the powder metal rods(PMR) in it and 400 rwhp seems to be the safe limit for them if you go much more than on the PMRs you will be in the market for a new block you can safely run stage II's and a gtp38 and chip but you should stay off the drugs they will destroy your life. Let me also say that the guys make 500+ rwhp are only using 4 inch pipe. My truck make 336rwhp on a 4 inch exhaust open K&N and chip this was no a dyno that cuold only make 5000# of load so the turbo would not spool past 22lbs on the road it will hit about 30 lbs so I feel there is 350 rwhp in my truck this is with stock injectors and turbo that I am planing to change to one from forced performance . Ask the in Jacksonville (NFSDA) if a 7700# truck will slide all over the dry roads my truck has way more power than it needs

Steven

 

I agree about the 4" exhaust but after living in Texas I adopted the motto that anything worth doing is worth doing big. Besides the rumble is just incredible...kinda reminds me of a musclecar sound. After doing some research I will do other things to optimize the power potential that is more than likely unrecognized at the moment. I also have a spare stock turbo that I am trying to figure out what do with.

Long story short, I bent a couple of the exhaust side fins when doing my Wicked Wheel install so I decided to keep the whole turbo for use later if needed. All I have to do is swap out the exhaust turbine and it will be good as new. If only I had the metal fab shop I have always dreamed of then I could fabricate a dual turbo setup.

However, not sure that one bank could spin the turbo up adequately and I would also have to o-ring the engine....more trouble than its worth right now.

 

I think that one bank would run the turbo with no problem and using stock twins with the waste gate they will only make 25psi and this is what garret say is the top of the usable range of the stocker. THey will make over 30psi but they have short life working like that. you realy don't need to fire ring the motor untill you are making over 50 psi stock head gaskets and a set of head studs will hold up to there but if you making that much boost the PMRs are going to make a BIG hole in the side of your block.

This is the turbo that I,m thinking of using http://linux.forcedperformance.net/m...gh_Perf_Diesel

 

Nice , now I am thinking (which usually means trouble) how best to convince someone that my truck and I warrant some R&D to get this dual turbo thing working. I mean there is plenty of room for two turbos just a matter of getting the plumbing working (which I know is no small feat) but heck I have the turbos and the truck is pretty much setup to start the work, I could even pay for parts such as injectors, and better fuel system components. Now where are those Yellow Pages.

= Wife when I tell her my next project for the truck.

BTW, all parts are installed and aside from an exhaust rattle I will be addressing with a cutting torch. Everything is awesome, the truck kicks much a$$ and even feels like a big block gasser but with the benefit of a awesome turbo whine and really loud exhaust. Before the install the truck felt like it was struggling to maintain 75 mph, now it cruises right up to 80 - 85 mph with no problems. I have to watch my speed again. Not used to this since getting rid of my Corvette Z06. Also, the shift kit makes the shifts much better but I will probably go with the modified valve body because I think the shifts could be better. On the other hand, the shift kit install was very easy, aside from the fluid all over the place. Even with the drain plug of the 4R100, I still managed to make a mess. I did notice that the magnet on the bottom of the pan had very little material attached to it. I assume most of the "stuff" attached was from the initial break-in. However, the fluid was a little darker than I liked but everything else looked okay.

= Mike after driving the truck hard and finding everything stayed attached.

= Final SOTP Measurement

 

Mike if you are going to make big power you need to get some forged rods in your motor as for the twins one on each bank I d'not think you will get much help most of the twins out there are staged. It seems that 600 or 700 rwhp can be obtained with large single. Speaking hp are the number in your signatrue real dyno numbers or are you adding up the advertised gains .Because if you are getting that out a predator that is very cool . I have hot setting on my chip and it made 336 rwhp 671wrtq And I can blow the doors of my buddys truck with a perdator on the 100 hp setting

Here is my dyno sheet

 

Lagerhead,
Yeah I realize that big power is going to require engine mods but the point about dual stock turbos is due to the fact that I have an extra stock turbo and would love to figure out how I can get this thing on the motor.

As far as the numbers these are rwhp and rwtq on a Mustang Dyno with the Predator 100 HP setting, an open element filter and a ABPRV. Now that I have the 5" exhaust the power should be a little better. At least I will have lower EGTs. Here is the link on the forum of the report
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...8&page=2&pp=20