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my engine has been having trouble running smooth after it has warmed up, so i began trouble shooting and came to the O2 sensor, has 6 ohms of resistance which is normal and havent checked it when the engine is running yet. However, i disconnected it and took my car for a drive and it seemed to run a lot smoother and had a little more power. Could this mean my O2 sensor is out? also, i tried removing it to take a look at it maybe its clogged or something but couldnt turn it at all.
hi Monty here first off what you need is to pull codes either you get a code scanner or you can pull codes yourself. check out ken00's tech article on doing that yourself.
if your going to take out the sensor you need a sensor socket.
Why guess when it only takes 2 minutes to pull the trouble codes?
Cant find the manual for my scanner at the moment, but if i remember correctly code 43 is for a bad O-2 sensor.
Take a couple of minutes to pull the codes & let us know what you come up with.
yea i tried pulling the codes using ken's article with the check engine light but i got no flashes, everything was wired right, but i was still confused, do you actually start the car or just turn it to the "on" position. cuz i tried both and i didnt get any flashes. Also, i think if i did get flashes i would be confused by the whoel sequence thing. i also tried with the voltage meter and didnt get anything. Im too cheap to buy a code reader so thats why i just started pulling sensor wires to see if one of them was screwed up. also, are you sure you need a special tool to take the sensor out because there is a nut on the exaust where the sensor is i tried to unscrew it, i dont think it comes off. lol waste of time, no budge. IM getting tired of this engine and frustrated at all the things i need to replace but either cant get the damn part off, dont have the right tool, or dont have the time or money to replace it. I know the engine is good theres just some little sensor or something screwing it all up.
When my 87 2.9 was stalling in 1st gear I knew the reason why 2 minutes after I hooked up my code scanner. It was a bad TPS.
When the cruise control died I knew the reason why 2 minutes after I hooked up my scanner. It was a bad vehicle speed sensor.
A scanner is worth the money.
Since you are not having any luck with pulling the codes & dont want to buy a scanner for 30 bucks, heres the symptoms of a bad O-2 sensor. The O-2 is ignored when the engine is cold & it's ignored at full throttle when the engine is hot. If it's bogging down at part throttle, but clears up when you floor it the O-2 might be bad.
Kens method for pulling the codes should work fine, but i've always used the scanner, so cant help you with that.
i would check then since your not going to use a scanner
i would check your TFI module ,your timing might be off a degree or too
your IAC valve , TPS , FPR, also check your plugs for any loose plugs or tips.
could be a bad neg connection. etc... Monty
IMO, I would work on why you can't get codes. No codes at all is a fault in itself, and could indicate:
1) Operator error -- You feel confident you are doing the test right. To answer your question, there are two tests that you can perform: Key On Engine Off (KOEO) which is performed with the wires hooked up as described in the article and turning the key to "on." Then there's the Key On Engine Running (KOER) test which is performed with the setup as described and then starting the engine. Perhaps a second set of instructions will clear up any confusion you're having. I like the set under tests at www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html
2) No/Intermittent power to the computer. This certainly could explain the other driveability symptoms you have.
3) No/Intermittent/Poor computer ground. Another possible (and fairly common) cause of driveability issues.
4) Wiring problem between the self-test connector and the computer.
If it were me, I'd be trying to figure out why I couldn't get codes.