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Bleeding the brakes

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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 02:26 AM
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Bleeding the brakes

A little help here, on how to bleed my brakes.

First, the reason why I think I should bleed them is I am getting a pulse in the brake pedel on moderate braking

I know this is a two person job so please give me a little info or all of your 2 cents.

Thx M
 
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 03:37 AM
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More than likely it is warped rotors.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 06:26 AM
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You can get Russell Speed Bleeders and do it yourself. Or you can get a pump and pump up from the wheel cylinder, also yourself. But if the brakes are hard and not drifting down, I vote with jughead - probably warped rotors.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 01:31 PM
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Bleeding will not fix pulsing. Pulsing is all about warped rotors or calpers. I just fixed two of my vehicles that had pulsing problems. In one of them it was the Calipers and in the other it was one of the rotors. When you do a brake job make sure that when you put parts back together you really clean all the metal to metal mating surfaces. I've had problems with pulsing brakes for years until I did my last brake job. In the shop manual for my Taurus it explained that if there is so much as a crumb of dirt between two mating surfaces then things are no longer aligned and your brake job will end up warping things and pulsing. Now I blow out the surfaces with compressed air and I also polish them with a wire brush. My brakes no longer pulse. It's such a simple fix.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 10:24 PM
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Another major cause of warped rotors is the lugnuts being overtorqued, most of the time done with an impact.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2005 | 11:58 PM
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Ok what I am getting that I dont need to bleed the system I had my brakes rotors looked at about two years ago and the rotor was still in the thickness range.
should I just do a brake job and maybe consider new rotors? rotors are pricy up here, I know better to stop than not to stop...
 
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by phonebooth
Ok what I am getting that I dont need to bleed the system I had my brakes rotors looked at about two years ago and the rotor was still in the thickness range.
Two years ago? Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to get them checked again. Spongy or no pedal can be associated with bleeding the brakes. Also, a rotor can still be within its thickness range and be warped as well. One way of being able to tell if a rotor is warped is if the vehicle pulls to one side while braking only SOME of the time. If, during braking, it pulls to one side all of the time, then lay your money on the caliper opposite of the side that it is pulling to. If it pulls to hard to one side while not braking and you are positive that your front-end is aligned, you have good steering and suspension components, tires in good shape, and properly inflated, then it is more than likely the caliper on the side it is pulling to or a bad brakeline (collapsed on the inside) to that caliper.

All of that aside, my first guess would be warped rotors. Good Luck!
 
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 03:54 PM
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Before you go spending any $, check rotors for thickness, pull them off and make sure mounting surfaces inside the rotor and on the hub are clean and smooth. Then reinstall rotor and wheel using a torque wrench and approach your final torque in three steps. This will make sure you don't have a rotor warp from inproper mounting and torque. If they still pulse then follow the other suggestions. Always do the easy cheap stuff first.
 
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