I do agree, that if his problem is bearing related, that at least the use of 20w 50w is a good idea, or if it was bad enough, straight 30w!! I live in Houston and i use 20-50 year round and have had luck since i moved here in 1973, it can get hot here....Janet

 

how do i hand retard the distribuator

 

By loosening the distributor nut. Then just move slightly to the right until engine idles lower, advancing, will make it run faster, when you retard it makes it run slower so to say.

What i was getting at there, is sometimes on an older engine or one with high miles, a person has to retard their timing a little to prevent spark knock....Janet

 

Yes, but you don't do it with the engine running. The reason you don't run the engine without the battery plugged in, is the battery helps provide the power regulation for the electrical system and the alternator.
If you have ever seen a car with a low battery and the headlights seem to be changing brightness with the engine rpm, thats the type of things that damages electronics like the computer and alternator If you can do it a way that's easier on the electronics, why wouldn't you?

Sorry to detract, but I hate to see people destroy parts for no reason.

 

It sounds like worn or broken piston skirts to me. I've had that before, and the engine lasted for many more miles. If you want to clear your computer, the correct method is to pull your ground cable, and then hold the brake pedal down for half a minute. Re connect your ground cable.

 

This a no-brainer ya'll. If the oil pressure is dropping to nothing at idle when the engine temp is normal and it doesn't knock when the oil (and engine temp) are cold (i.e thicker), the mains are worn out.

 

I agree!! But the oil gauge could be wrong, i would still take my valve covers off and see if it was putting out a bunch of oil though when that gauge put out that low reading, because one thing about the 302 or 351 windsor, those rockers will give you an oil bath if they are working right.

But for the most part, YUP!! You're probably going to be correct, but he may get lucky and it may just be his timing is advanced too far or poor fuel causing the knock?? I would be able to tell if i was actually there, because i can tell a harmfull main bearing THUD type knock, (Doesn't sound pretty) from wrist pin clatter/ping from connecting rod, i have learned to make out the difference just from time.


Janet

 

I'm not trying to argue, because i don't act that way, but you are simply wrong about everything you just said. I'm sorry but that just is not true. It is done with engine running and won't hurt a thing. All dealerships do it, as well as professional mechanics. It's done as a measure on higher mileage engines to rule out low octane fuel or a slightly worn engine that will not set by specifications and to retard slighly sometimes corrects the issue and will not hurt anything. I know this.


Now concerning a vehicle with headlights that fluctuate and dim and get brighter, that is either that your alternator has a bad spot on the commutator or a battery cable or wire is faulty. But back to everything you said, sure it sounds real because you made it sound real or you simply were told this by someone, but i'm sorry, it's not true. Now if the battery is fully charged, then upon acceleration the headlights will not brightenn, but you let any new car sit for 2 weeks then start it at night and give it some gas, the headlights will get brighter. Now if the engine is just idling and the headlights keep dimming and and get brighter without acceleration, a person then has an alternator problem or the battery cables could be loose or a small gauage wire could be corroded somewhere.


But any technice i have stated in this topic, will NOT HARM A SYSTEM. One thing about my character, is this. I will never tell a person to try something or do something unless i know what i am talking about. I am not the type person to just think up something, these are things myself and people i work with and know at dealerships, not to mention my college and experience. Many topics i will pass up, if i do not know the answer, but these methods i happen to know them, and a good mechanic will do them, based on what the user is saying is wrong with his vehicle.

You're making it sound like it's dangerous and requires spending 200 dollars to have a bad battery or something changed. The first thing i was told by teacher Danny Clabourn, in Auto Mechanics class before we headed out to the shop area, Quote: Class, everything we have learned in books and manuals i am sorry to say, but once you go to the shop once we complete this part of your course, you will find when you actually perform hands on, will be completely different, and you will have to learn that what we have learned in the classroom as far as specs is factory new engines with no wear, but when an engine gets some wear, there are procedures practiced, plus i worked at dealerships for years!!!


I also still know these people at main dealerships right here in Houston, these methods are safe i have described, if they are done as i explained.

Janet

 

This arguing stops NOW!