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> why cant they try to unblock it instead of installing a new one
Mostly because they can't guarantee results that way.
Figure out which hose is the exit hose for the coolant (usually closest to the fender), disconnect both hoses, connect a hose to the inlet side long enough to droop over the grill, get a sink flusher which is an expanding balloon (about $5 at Home Depot) and stick it into the outlet. It will not go in all the way, but, you can hold it there. Now turn on the water and back flush the heater core. Once you have clear running water, switch sides.
This is how I saved someone the 12+ hours needed for having to replace a Taurus heater core.
I have a somewhat similar problem, driving the van with it just on 'vent' the temp gauge goes a little past half way. I turn on the AC, MAX and the temp drops to half way.
Your voltage to the dash gauges may have dropped.
Originally Posted by Rod Bender
My question, how do you check the vacuum module that operates the heater door ?
You can take the hose off at the vacuum motor, push the arm in and put your finger over the nipple of the motor and see if it stays. If it does it is a good motor.
OR you can take the vacuum plug off at the control and use a hand vacuum pump to check each vacuum motor.
Originally Posted by Rod Bender
Is there a relay for that function ?
No
Originally Posted by Rod Bender
If so, where, which one is it ?
Only the hand control on the dash.
Note the blend door (cold-warm control) is cable hand operated on the dash with no vacuum motor.
There may be relays and switches for the fan operations also.
There may also be resistors (for the front) and a switch for the rear fan speeds.
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