Have a 93 f450 7.3 w/e4od seems i blew a maxi fuse some time back and trans wouldn't shift & no tach, replaced fuse every thing was fine for a while, then fuse blew again i ckd owners book to see what fuse it was & it is TFI module, ignition coil, distrib p.u.,eec relay. replaced fuse and 1 week later in the middle a snow storm fuse blew & trans overheated and cooked withen 3hrs. tranny is a rebuild about a year ago.I dont know what to ck to make sure this don't happen again after trans is replaced. anybody know what the problem might be?
thanks kcc

 

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The trans needs three inputs to work correctly, Tach, Speed input and FIPL/IP input. any one of these is missing it should go into limp home mode. That would be 2nd gear and reverse, was that what you were in when it burned up.

I would check all trans connections, especially the one on the pax side with the heat shield, remove the shield and disconnect the plug correctly, don't break it. With a mirror check for corrosion and bent pins in the solenoid body end and burnt wires and corrosion on the connector. You must replace the heat shield. Some connectors will short out with water, could be yours did....... being as you snow plow.

 

thanks plc. ckd the connection they looked ok along w/ other connections i was just wondering whatFIPL/IP WAS & and how do u ck all the other sensors that u mentiod. Drove the truck home & the od light was flashing & trans was whinning, we have anew trans comming from power pro, going to change it this weekend. if u could think of anything else to ck it would be helpful, thanks kcc

 

FIPL is fuel injection position lever or TPS throttle position sensor same same. IP is injection pump.......

Do the FIPL setting, if no change post back..........

This is a post by DieselDon I have taken the liberty to trim slightly.......

Hook up the negative lead of a volt meter to the battery ground and the positiove lead to the center GY/W (grey/white) wire which is the FIPL signal wire. I use a paper clip up the side of the wire in the connector. The FIPL must be attached to the wiring harness. Engine low idle speed must be set to specs prior to adjusting the FIPL.

With a warm engine, key on, engine off, measure the voltage at the GY/W wire, if adjustment is required loosen either the bracket with bolts or just use the slack in the Torx screw holes. Now gently rotate the FIPL until you get some where between 1.05V and 1.1V. then tighten the torx screws or bolts which ever you loosened ensuring no movement of volt setting. Rotate the throttle lever slowly to WOT see if you get 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V. Watch for any dead spots.

The large FIPL mounting bracket can be moved but ensure it is centered for a good rotation. Any adjustment should be made by only rotating the FIPL. If a new FIPL is required, check tang engagement as you take off the old FIPL and then make sure that the tangs in the new FIPL engage the throttle lever properly.

The closed throttle voltage: 1.1 V, ...wide open throttle voltage: minimum of 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V.

More info....
Early Black FIPL has High Failure Rate

RECOMMENDATION
Always replace the black colored early FIPL or any colored FIPL having 60 thousand or more miles with the late gray colored FIPL.

PART NUMBER
F2TZ-9B989-C


If you change the trans replace the cooler and all lines if they do not come with new trans, consider an inline filter on the return line too. Some trans warranties are void it the aforementioned is not done........check your requirements.

 

plc i ckd all the wire connection and found that the sensor on the drivers side was badly coroded, cleaned plug, and ckd for power at both switch/ ok, haven't done the other ones u told me to ck fipl but what does that have to do w/ the trans

 

The FIPL reads the position of the IP (fuel) and sends a specific voltage to the PCM. Did you try driving the vehicle............how does it work.

 

PLC7.3 the fipl is ok, but noticed after cleaning neutral saftey that the truck wont crank unless u wigile the shifter, going to replace w/ trans, i also noticed that the OD light is flashing now, i'am going to ck w/ scan tool after i replace trans, or should i ck before?

 

The flashign OD is a stored computer code.
Until you clear the code, it will continue to flash, and you will have tranny issues.

Clear the codes (read them first, of course) before you change anything. If you don't, the computer retains certain codes and you will carry those issues over.

 

IRONPANTS

my od light flashes also how do you clear the trouble codes?

 

E40D code removal

Hard faults go away when you fix them. The memory codes ( "soft faults' ) can be erased by disconnecting the battery, using a scan tool and "clearing memory codes", or they will go away on there own after a certain number ( 40 or 80 depend on the model year ) of drive cycles, assuming that the intermittent running problem does not reoccur.

Summary of codes types.
Hard faults - problem present at the time the Key One Engine Off
( KOEO ) SelfTest is run.
Continuous Memory codes - occured while the vehicle was operating and may stll be there. If it is still there you may have the same code in both areas.
Engine Running Codes ( Key On Engine Running, KOER ) occur during the KOER Self Test. They will disappear when fixed.

Nuetral safety (MLPS) can if out of range ie incorrect position cause a voltage drop which exceeds limits set for the position which may give harsh engagements, firm shift feel.

 

This happened to me in a '90 F-250 and I finally found a short/break in the wire coming from the tach sensor(after I paid $70 for a new one)...fixed it and no more problems. Also I was getting clutch chatter before this happened and now that is gone..explain that. E.

 

Since we are talking about Tachs, I have a question! Just bought my first Diesel, its a 94 F350 CC turbo D. It has the e4od tranny. When idling in park, my tach sits at about 200. Yes, i know this is low but it is not an accurate reading. I believe it is actually idling about 7 - 8 hundred. When I put it in gear, the needle rests on the peg at zero. As soon as I give it a little throttle, it picks right up to what I believe is an accurate reading. For instance, at 60mph, it reads 1900. For the most part the tranny shifts fine. However at about 30mph, its a little jumpy, going back and forth between 2nd and 3rd. When it is doing that, the tach is also jumpy. Any ideas on this matter would be greatly appreciated. Other than the tach, i believe the rest of the gauges are working fine. Truck runs great!

Thanks for any input, Phish.

 

check your tps or vss could be either

 

Ok, I know that TPS is throttle position sensor, but what is VSS?

Phish