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Went out this morning to find that my '68 F250-390 doesn't want to turn over. The starter spins, but won't engage. Is the starter done for, or could the solenoid switch be the problem?
Prompt responses are appreciated - I've got to get to work!
Thanks.
-Craig
Make sure you are getting 12 volts to your starter use a volt meter at the post on the starter and have some on turn the key do the same on your solenoid
Alright...So I spent the better part of 4 hours wrestling the old starter out and wedging the new one in. ($42 at Napa) What took so long was the headers! Couldn't drop the starter out without pulling the header from the head and disconnecting it from the head pipe! Of course the lazy s.o.b. I bought the truck from was too lazy to torque the inside header bolts so the gaskets are fried. I'll change them out tomorrow. It may be loud, but it starts and runs again!
Thanks for the help.
Welcome to the real world of headers on a FE, and the reason I will never use them again. Ya better put a insulation blanket on the starter or you could be changing it again next year.
Tis my understanding that shorty headers (Sanderson) don't cause that problem.
Ya, headers and starters in these trucks are a PITA!!! I've got 1 1/2 yrs now and so far no problems. I don't have any wrap or such, but it does not seem to be hurting the starter. I did ALOT of hammering/bending to clear everything, so maybe that is why mine has not fried the starter yet. It took ALL day to get them fitted(dynomax headers).
The sad part, my '64 Galaxie I can change the starter without even touching the headers at all. It all just drops out with out jacking car up! Of course the headers are the split kind that two come out around the front, two in the rear and that gives alot more room for starter.
I'll replace the header gaskets for now, but will start hunting for some olde time cast iron e-manifolds - the exhaust system need some work anyway (darn glass pack "mufflers") - too much road noise as it is with the 33x12.50 meats. Everything elso under the hood is stock, so it seems that stock manifolds will work just fine.
Thanks.
Most "used" ones are as poor as the ones I took off. There are new ones listed in catalogs, but at $150 a piece....I don't think I will buying any for a long time
Unimog...I've got two of them
Both FE's, one blown(6-71) 390 and one with 428, both stick shifts
One is a street car, one is race car. One is 2 dr, one is wagon..............now figure which is which
Use copper header gaskets and forget about them for years, like 17 going on 18 years, less starter rebuilds every 8 years + or - . Headers are easy to live with, people are not.
When I dropped new 390 in, I first wrapped starter and headers around starter with fire resist cloth. I have changed starter a couple times in the 16 yrs I have driven this truck, so have it down to a couple hours. Thinking about a smaller high torque starter for next time. Make sure you put some anti sieze lotion on those header bolts.