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I was wondering if someone could help me out. I have a 95 f150 extra cab with a 5.0 (302) and my auto hubs are junk. Ford wants $1000.00 to replace them. Hell no! I have been reading on here that the best thing to do is to convert to Warn Premium Manual hubs and I think I'm going to do it. Can anyone tell if it's a real pain to do? I have auto hubs with the 3 screw caps. I hear that these type of hubs require a conversion kit and the hubs. Does anyone know what is involved with this conversion? Will I need any specialty tools or a shop press anything together?
I'm sure that someone will answer your "three screw hubs" question. Is Ford talking about replacing the rotor and hub assembly with the caliper? Way too much for hubs alone. If you're gonna change them, go with Warn Premium. I'm sure the extra $20.00 or so is worth it and it will still be 1/10th of what you were quoted. My '66 F-250 w/352 4spd had manual hubs and I believe that they actually had WARN on them from the factory. With hubs as in life, you get what you pay for.
You'll probably need the big hub nut to get the one spindle nut off the automatics and then a four pronger to get the warns on.Thats about it, and some bearing grease if thats all your doing. its real simple. I used this site for pics and stuff it helped alot....good luck
the conversion kit is nothing more than two nuts and a washer with holes in it. one nut goes against the bearing then the washer(make sure its seated on the nut pin) then the lockingwasher is tourqed on
Check out Warns' web site (www.warn.com) for the parts and pieces needed to convert to manual hubs. As fordgta mentioned, you will need the conversion kit as well as the hubs.
Warn's hubs and the conversion kit comes with installation instructions that actually work. You will need a spindle nut wrench (sort of a rounded off thin-wall socket) to remove your wheel bearing retainer nut and a special 4-prong wrench to install the conversion kit. Use the right tools and the job is relatively easy.
Figure one hour for the first side and a half hour for the second side to complete the job.
You are going to need a torque wrench also and maybe a pipe for extra leverage. I did mine a 4 years ago and havent had any problems (and I plow with it).
i did mine at 36,000 miles,and just bought a set of milemarker hubs and put them on,no modifications,or changing of nuts.have not had a failure or problem,except the **** siezing on the aluminum exterior.i had the brass **** ones,i went with the plastic ones 2 yrs ago.
why remove the spindle nut, he's not replacing the bearings? the premium kit comes with everything you need, it replaces the 3 screw with a six screw cap. follow the Warn instructions--their good. remove everything down to the spindle nut and lock ring for the nut, slide the new slightly greased hub on the axle, install axle snap ring, install hub ring and put the cap on. jack up the tire and lock the hub in, rotate tire to see if front driveline turns, your golden. you can test this prior to the cap going on, just use your fingers (screwdriver tip) to push the hub in while your turning the wheel. this is pretty simple, should take 1.5 hours as stated above and after you do it once you'll never forget.
you can always take the conversion kit back, and you will eventually(sp) need the wrench.
Last edited by ssn randy; Jan 31, 2005 at 10:59 AM.
Reason: not trying to be condesending!
why remove the spindle nut, he's not replacing the bearings? the premium kit comes with everything you need, it replaces the 3 screw with a six screw cap. follow the Warn instructions--their good. remove everything down to the spindle nut and lock ring for the nut, slide the new slightly greased hub on the axle, install axle snap ring, install hub ring and put the cap on. jack up the tire and lock the hub in, rotate tire to see if front driveline turns, your golden. you can test this prior to the cap going on, just use your fingers (screwdriver tip) to push the hub in while your turning the wheel. this is pretty simple, should take 1.5 hours as stated above and after you do it once you'll never forget.
?why remove the spindle nut? hes replacing autos with manuals. the conversion has different nuts . theyre smaller to make room for the new warn hubs
Where to buy a new wheel hub? Not locking/lockout hubs, but the actual hub (inner)? The bearings went out on the right front and 'grated' some of the inside of the hub, so the inner bearing race doesn't seat right!
just had a shop replce my 3 screw auto hubs with warns and the hub-nut conversion nut, ran me about an hour and $217....woulda done it mysle3f but the navy hasn't provided me with a good place to work on it yet
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