starter cable question
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 170
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From: New York
starter cable question
on my 1985 6.9L I replaced the POS cable like 3 yrs ago (OEM Ford- real nice cable) and it is fine except the eyelet down on the starter solenoid cooked/ rotted off- probably mostly due to heat. Can I just replace the eyelet? or you just have to do the whole cable?
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Los Angeles
you can just replace the eye. just splice in a new one. The cables not really cheap (it's like 140 bucks ish i just reaplced mine). of course if you have a friend at NAPA then it's like 65 bucks.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 170
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From: New York
yaeh, I really want to use the OEM cable- much nicer with all the 'anciallary' cables that are part of the whole mess. Where can I get that eyelet? and how do you recommend splicing it in?
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Los Angeles
buy the same gauge wire- to replace the piece that's burnt, then buy the eye. (go to napa). Cut the wire to were it's good again. place the eye on the wire, tape it up. then splice the two wires together. it's pretty simple. but you might want to pull the wire out of the truck to do all the splicing.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Option 1 go to NAPA and get a ring terminal for 3/0 copper cable with the right stud size to bolt on the starter solenoid terminal. Clean the cable as well as you can and use a torch to solder the end on the cable. Lots of soldering flux will help clean the stuff you can not get cleaned off by scraping.
Option 2 is to remove the cable and have them crimp a new end on it.
Remember to unhook both positive cable clamps from the batteries before you start either option, there is a lot of amps in that cable.
Option 2 is to remove the cable and have them crimp a new end on it.
Remember to unhook both positive cable clamps from the batteries before you start either option, there is a lot of amps in that cable.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Los Angeles
ring terminal that's what it's called. haha
but yeah. the option b might be best... pretty much what i was saying
but yeah. the option b might be best... pretty much what i was saying
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
After I thought about it I would use linerless splicing tape from 3M. You stretch it as you wrap it around your splice and it vulcanizes into one solid piece of rubber.
That will seal it as well as possible, and if you wrap several layers around it there would be a lot of protection for the possibility of something shorting it out.
That will seal it as well as possible, and if you wrap several layers around it there would be a lot of protection for the possibility of something shorting it out.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
It is common in electrical supply houses, like where you would go for commercial electrical supplys.
I first ran into the stuff talking with a phone service tech. They have used this for years when they had to splice under ground cables. If all the surfaces are clean and dry you wind up with a waterproof splice that is stronger than the cable sheath.
Being a Master Electrician does have a few perks.
When you wrap the cable, start a few inches back on the insulation and stretch the tape about 50% as you wrap it, lapping it about 1/2 the width of the tape. Go as far down on the ring terminal as you would like, then wrap in the other direction till you go past where you started. 10 minutes after you are done the only way to get it off is cutting it. It will be one piece of rubber.
You do need to have clean hands as you apply it, oil will interfer with the bond. A 3/4" wide tape is easy to work with, it does come in several widths, some of which are kind of tricky to apply.
Some of the liquid tapes are great at sealing connections, but they offer no physical protection in my opinion.
I first ran into the stuff talking with a phone service tech. They have used this for years when they had to splice under ground cables. If all the surfaces are clean and dry you wind up with a waterproof splice that is stronger than the cable sheath.
Being a Master Electrician does have a few perks.
When you wrap the cable, start a few inches back on the insulation and stretch the tape about 50% as you wrap it, lapping it about 1/2 the width of the tape. Go as far down on the ring terminal as you would like, then wrap in the other direction till you go past where you started. 10 minutes after you are done the only way to get it off is cutting it. It will be one piece of rubber.
You do need to have clean hands as you apply it, oil will interfer with the bond. A 3/4" wide tape is easy to work with, it does come in several widths, some of which are kind of tricky to apply.
Some of the liquid tapes are great at sealing connections, but they offer no physical protection in my opinion.
Last edited by Dave Sponaugle; Feb 10, 2005 at 09:15 PM.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 170
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From: New York
sounds good Dave. thanks. in the meantime I looked around and found this site. what do you think? either way is probably good...
http://www.solarseller.com/distribut...nnectors__.htm
http://www.solarseller.com/distribut...nnectors__.htm
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
NAPA should have connectors like the model 65 connectors. Price will be about the same without the shipping cost.
The electrical suppy house that has the splicing tape should also have the terminals.
Check the lug size on your starter, I right now do not remember if it is 3/8" or 1/2". Your wire size should be 3/0 copper at the starter.
The electrical suppy house that has the splicing tape should also have the terminals.
Check the lug size on your starter, I right now do not remember if it is 3/8" or 1/2". Your wire size should be 3/0 copper at the starter.