I finally installed me new turn signal assembly on my 1977 F250. First time around, I got the wrong one from the Sedro Woolley NAPA, learned after I had the steering wheel off.

This time, I have the right assembly, finally got the wires snaked through the column and my steering wheel back on.

But when it comes down to putting the wires into the curved underdash connector, I've run into a mystery. I was replacing like with like, until the last two:

Of the original wires, I still have a white with orange trace (actually a narrow orange stripe and a wider orange stripe) and one that's either pale gray or dirty white.

Coming from the new assembly, I have blue with red trace, blue with black trace, and solid blue.

A friend who was with me when I bought the assembly tells me the extra wire is for some rigs with cruise control (he thinks). He says there was in instruction sheet with the kit. If there was, I've lost it while I was packing this unit around. Does anyone know which wires swap into that connector?

Thanks,

Lane

 

I played with my choices a bit yesterday, but ran out of time. I had a mission to Lynnwood to haul a car. I ended up with turn signals that work even with the key off, and use the flasher that should be working the four-ways. The flasher that should be working the turn signals clicks all the time, but doesn't appear to be flashing anything on the truck (so where's it getting the load?). I unplugged it. The four-ways, of course, do not work.

Obviously, I have a wire or two swapped. But I made it to Lynnwood, picked up a dead Subaru on my trailer, made it back home OK. At least folks on the freeway could see me signal to change lanes.

I guess some more experimentation is in order. I'm hoping someone here has replaced that turn signal unit and dealt with the same wiring color code changes.

BTW, I'm ticked off. I paid a bunch of money for the new unit, because the old one didn't cancel and was WAY too easy to turn on -- really floppy, just brush it and the signal was on. The new one has a really positive feel, but it still does not cancel. GRR!

 

Every wire that is on the column is the same.

The difference when the truck has cruise is ALL after the column harness plugs into it.
In other words, Underdash wiring has all the cruise wiring.

Here are a couple of pics for your pleasure.

The problem with your other one was the plastic cam that actuates the cancelling.


http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...loomwiring.JPG

http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...lconnector.jpg

 

Thanks. It looks like you have the "new" colors in your drawing. I think this is what the new unit has. The old unit had 8 wires instead of nine, and two of them did not match with any of the remaining three colors.

This gives me the correct order. I should be able to correct whatever I have swapped at present. Beats hell out of spending hours swearing with a test meter.

Yeah, sadly I have concluded there's a cam that's not part of the assembly I just replaced. So no self-cancel feature for me.

 

You can just buy the cam at any store that has a H.E.L.P. part section.

$6.00 usd

I thought the 77 had a hazard switch on the column ?
This would explain the different wiring then.

 

Dennis I believe the 77 as well has the hazard on the column. Lane replace the cam and they will cancel out when you are done with your turn.

 

I think you guys are right. The new signal switch assembly has a nice positive detent, so the turn signal no longer turns on from the breeze of my hand passing by. But I need something else. The cam is separate, huh? If I can get one for six bucks, that will be great. Of course, I'll get to pull the steering wheel AGAIN. At least I'm not pulling that bundle of wires through the steering column again; that's good. I finally ended up shoving a piece of lubed heat shrink tubing up through the column, shrinking the end onto the bundle of wires, and pulling THAT through the column.

Yes, the '77 has a hazard switch on the right side of the column. It's not the same as the '79, though. That's the "wrong" assembly that the local NAPA sold me on the my first try.

I didn't have time to fool with the truck tonight. Had to run to Marblemount and diagnose the friend's Subaru that I picked up in Lynnwood last night. I think compression of 175 and 150 on the right bank, zero and 75 on the left, hot spark but nothing fires even with ether, and very little suction when I put my hand over the carb... is a baaaaad sign...... Yeah, looks like the left timing belt has slipped; that fits her tale of losing power, terrible mileage, and finally dying.

Believe it or not, I was parking my trailer with the Subaru on it at my shop late last night, backing in between two woodsplitters and my friend's '76 F250, when my dingbat sidekick/buddy bailed out to "help." I told him "just get behind the trailer and make sure I don't hit Michelle's truck." He actually told me to straighten out (toward the parked truck) and come straight back, until I hit the friggin' truck! THEN he yells to hold it! Fortunately, it didn't damage the front bumper end on the F250, just put a hell of a curl in the right fender of my trailer. If he had not been there to "correct" my course, I'd never had touched that truck. I still cannot F'in BELIEVE it!

The friend with the sad Subaru needs a nice Ford -- in fact she really needs to fix her '69 Ford half ton. Recycle that piece of Jap tin.

Sorry about the rant. I really am glad I can fix my turn signals now. And my F250 is working fine, doing Ford type chores, hauling dead Chevy half tons, loads of garbage (I know that seems redundant, but the Chevy owner says there's a difference ), chain saws and wood. Life is good.