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The only reason i would consider doing the bottom end would be only if i had antifreeze in my oil pan. Or other noticable noises from inside the bottom end.
I did, so i pulled it apart. Surprisingly, I am not finding alot of rust (engine sat for 18 months like this). If all checks out well, I'll get it back together, and spend the money on the valve work. I mentioned that some of my valve stems are hammered on the tops.
The hamered valve stems will destroy any new rockers installed in those positions. Hammering could be caused by worn rocker pivot points or recessed valves due to wear.
4X4man,
The Felpro headgasket set has the 2 head gaskets, 2 valve cover gaskets, 2 exhaust manifold gaskets, Right & Left thermostat gaskets, 8 copper injector seals, a bag of O rings, and a large (1"+/-) rubber grommet type washer that I haven't figured out. Never found anything like it when I was taking things apart. I believe this set also had the valve guides included but the shop pulled them from the kit and used them on the heads. The above set cost $130 purchased with the reconditioning of the heads. I was told the set with the valley pan was over $225 and that the shop was giving me a special deal? This gasket set will likely go with the heads as a package deal along with my used valley pan. If you are interested I'm located near Seattle.
tdford, how much do you want for the heads and the gaskets?also,is the valley pan reusable?i thought it also acted as intake gaskets.im in ga would you ship it?thanks.
I noted the same thing as Ironpants when I unbolted my heads. Thebolts were loose as soon as I gave them the first first 1/4 turn. Mine was a rebuild and judging from the rest of the quality I'm wondering if they were torqued correctly when the heads were bolted on the first time. They seem to have held just fine though but I've never run more than about 8 lbs of boost from the aftermarket turbo. 4X4man, I had my heads reconditioned and bought a new gasket set before learning my block was toast. I'm considering a long block replacement in which case my heads and the gasket set might be available. I hate the thought of only getting a core credit out of the reconditioned heads. They are pressure checked and ground, have all new valve springs and guides, and the bad valves were replaced and the good valves reconditioned. The good cylinders were holding 440 to 480 before I pulled the heads.
I can get you some bad heads to sit on your bad block
4X4man, I found a used block that I'm going to replace the heads on. Sorry for the false start. I was hoping to find a way to save us both some money.
PLC7.3, I hate being a novice but I listened to the machine shop that reworked the heads when they said that if the valley pan wasn't damaged during removal it was reusable and followed their recomendation to buy the gasket kit without it. I will follow your advice and get a new valley pan but if you have time please elaborate to help all of us understand why the valley pan needs to be replaced. Half of the reason I'm doing this myself is to learn as much as I can. Thanks!
I can get you some bad heads to sit on your bad block
Unfortunately most core charges appear to be refundable only if the returned block/heads are rebuildable. Ford remans are the sole exception I've found so far but their price seems to reflect the policy.
thats cool.by the time we shipped them it might not be worth the money anyway.
canyall give me an idea what the going price for rebuilt heads is?the shop i talked to said 365$ apiecce.doesthat sound high oris it the going price?thanks again guys.
If they don't tack a core charge on top of that price and use all new parts it sounds in the ball park. You might want to check some of the listings on E-Bay for 7.3 heads for comparison and make sure you understand what work was actually done to the heads. The main lesson I've learned from these threads is that "rebuild" only means they took the peice apart and put it back together.
how obvious are cylinder head cracks and cavitations holes?
Head cracks may not be visible and may or may not produce obvious symptoms. Cavitation isn't visible from the exterior of the engine but will produce more obvious symptoms. Even when symptoms caused by either problem are present they can be similar to those caused by a variety of other problems making it difficult to know if you have either problem untill you go through a process of testing and elimination that might involve partial disassembly of the engine.
The valley pan is a crush seal, it is damaged on tightening the intake ........once and done. It's not worth the hassle of removing the IP, lines, intake, possible oil leaks, etc should the thing not seal correctly all for the sake of $50.
I'm sorry I didn't realize you were talking about disassembled engine components. The hole in the cylinder in my block was easy to see but I don't know if it's always that way. Hopefully someone with more experience will answer.