Transfer case handle broke off
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Transfer case handle broke off
Hi all,
I'm new to the forum but hoping someone out there can help. I have a '95 F150 4X4 with the 4.9 6cyl, manual trans, auto locking hubs and a stick to engage four wheel drive. This morning when I pulled the handle back something below the trim boot in the floor must have broken, lever, bushing, linkage, pin, I'm just not sure. I haven't had the chance to really look at it yet. Has anyone ever replaced that lever? Do you have to drop the transfer case to work on something like that? I plan to hit the library to get a repair manual but I was wondering what I might be getting myself into. If anyone out there has replaced the handle or linkage for it, or had to remove it for some other repair, I'd sure appreciate hearing from you.
Thanks,
David
I'm new to the forum but hoping someone out there can help. I have a '95 F150 4X4 with the 4.9 6cyl, manual trans, auto locking hubs and a stick to engage four wheel drive. This morning when I pulled the handle back something below the trim boot in the floor must have broken, lever, bushing, linkage, pin, I'm just not sure. I haven't had the chance to really look at it yet. Has anyone ever replaced that lever? Do you have to drop the transfer case to work on something like that? I plan to hit the library to get a repair manual but I was wondering what I might be getting myself into. If anyone out there has replaced the handle or linkage for it, or had to remove it for some other repair, I'd sure appreciate hearing from you.
Thanks,
David
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: pa
there is an aluminum block that the handle bolts into,they sieze up and break if you pull back hard on them.i broke mine and rewelded it.plus put neversieze all over the handle before it goes into the bracket.mine works as easy as the day it was made.
pull the bolt out of the bracket holding the aluminum bracket to the transfer case,after you remove the push on linkage.that is the hardest part.those plastic bushings are buggers to get the rod off of.maybe a little warming effect on them they would come off easier.
pull the bolt out of the bracket holding the aluminum bracket to the transfer case,after you remove the push on linkage.that is the hardest part.those plastic bushings are buggers to get the rod off of.maybe a little warming effect on them they would come off easier.
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You were right
Magna19,
Thanks, you were exactly right. The aluminum bracket is broken. Unfortunately, I'm not a welder so I guess it's off to the Ford dealer for the parts. I think I'll take your advise and replace all the bushings and grease everything up while I'm at it.
David
Thanks, you were exactly right. The aluminum bracket is broken. Unfortunately, I'm not a welder so I guess it's off to the Ford dealer for the parts. I think I'll take your advise and replace all the bushings and grease everything up while I'm at it.
David
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Newtown, CT
Brace yourself for the price of those parts - same thing happened to me and the arm and bolt/bracket came to $300 plus (with a reasponable sympathy discount from the parts guy). If the block is seized on the bolt you'll need to get two parts, the arm and the bracket/bolt setup too, although you'll only need the bolt from the bracket (which is NOT available separately). Not to difficult to replace yourself ...
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Joined: Oct 2004
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If you take a good look at that bracket and are willing to do without the neutral to 4L detent I think it would be possible to fabricate a replacement. Probably out of square tube.
Mine froze up and would not move down to clear the detent. While poking around with it the detent pin broke off. Ping - problem solved. I am just very careful when shifting into 4H that I don't overpull and go to 4L. The dash lights tell me where I am. (93 F-250 auto 4X4)
Mine froze up and would not move down to clear the detent. While poking around with it the detent pin broke off. Ping - problem solved. I am just very careful when shifting into 4H that I don't overpull and go to 4L. The dash lights tell me where I am. (93 F-250 auto 4X4)
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From: pa
more than likely if you have a welding shop locally you can get it welded for around $20 or so.just have it cleaned up and ready for welding.after welding it never sieze the living crap out of everything that goes through the aluminum.mine works just like the day it was made,before it broke,it got stiff and hard to move.
