I have a 1985 F-250 Diesel 6.9 Manual Transmission.
The key switch when turned to the start position will not
spring back to the run position. You have to manually turn it
back to the run position. You cannot feel any positive stops
between off, run, and start position. Also you can do all of this
without having the key in the ignition.
I searched other topics about this and got a general feeling what
it could be. I know I will need the key tumbler assembly because
the the switch works without the key.
Will I also need the ignition switch that is in the steering column?
I have never tore into the steering column before and the Chilton
Manual I have is not very detailed.
I would greatly appreciate any help you could give me in this matter.
Thanks,
Rodney

 

I don't believe you will need the actual switch part (electrical part). I would start by putting in the new tumbler and see if that fixes it first.

 

I agree with strictlystangs2. you may only have to replace the lock cylinder (tumbler part). This is a realy easy job.

How to remove the lock cylinder. (this is how I did it on my 81 I am pretty sure your truck is the same)
If you look behind the steering wheel you will see 2 screws (1 on each handle).
You remove thoes screws, and take off the horn pad, make sure not to just pull it off becouse the horn will still be wired in and you will have to diconnect the wires.
After the horn pad is off you will see a big nut, remove the nut. On each side of the nut you will see 2 threaded holes, install a puller and take off the steering wheel.
I suggest you make sure the wheels are in the straight forward position, or if you like the positioning of the wheel the way it is just mark it, and the shaft.
When the steering wheel is removed you will see the casing of the ignition, and near the end there will be a small button. Put the ignition in the run/on position, and push the button with a paperclip, drill bit, or I used an old hanger. With the button pushed, pull the lock cylinder straight out.

To install:
Put lock cylinder in run (if you can't find it, it is the only position the button can get pushed). Push the button, and slide the lock cylinder into the column. Rock the key a little to set the button in place.
The rest is the opposite of removal. When putting the steering wheel on you can position it any way you like, I like to put mine facing alittle to the right so i can grab the left handle and let my arm rest on the window while crusing. check your book for the torque on the big nut and you are prity much set.

If you need more detail just ask, I don't know how much you know so I did not know how much detail to go into.
Good luck!

 

I tend to disagree, as the electrical switch is what determines position and feel, not the tumbler. You could take the electrical switch loose, and the tumbler will turn freely back and forth, as there is no resistance and should not be. The electrical switch has the springs and roller ***** in it for setting position to be in the right spot, the adjustment just makes it so the key will turn the right amount before running out of rotation. Also, on the steering wheel lovcation, the older trucks allowed the different location, but if you look at the steering wheel center, there is a flat spot on it to help locate the wheel to straight, and also a line up mark to help. If you put it on to the side a littl, it will flatten some of the splines, and make it harder to get off. Also, the next time you go for an alignment, they count on the steering wheel being center, and will adjust it to be such, so if it is turned to the side a little, they will actually adjust it to where the linkage goes offset to compensate.
A test would be to remove the ignition switch and see if the lock cylinder turns with minimal drag, iif it does, then it is the ignitionswitch. If it feels like it is dragging, then it would be the tumbler, but it may just need a little lube, rather than replaced. Don't use any lube that will gum up, as you will be right back into it, use a dry lube like graphite.

 

Thanks guys for all the information. I might as well go ahead and get both the tumbler and the ignition switch. I know I have to get the tumbler because you can start the truck with or without the key in the ignition.
Thanks for the information about removing the tumbler. My Chilton book says nothing about removing the steering wheel. It just says that there is a hole in the casting you put a pin in and release the tumbler.
As for the ignition switch the book says to release the steering column so I guess that it is just retained by a couple of bolts and it will swing down after removal of the bolts.
Ya'll have saved me a great amout of time on this. I would have probably eventually figured it out, but it sure is better going in knowing what to do.
Have a great day and God bless,
Rodney

 

the ignition switch is down low on the column, and the reason for dropping the column is access. It is retained by 2 bolts. The mounting holes are slotted for adjustment. If you can't quite figure out the adjustment, come on back and we'll help you out. It's fairly easy, just set the tumbler in the lock position, and set the switch on the rod, and it should be set. If the switch is out of position, or the tumbler is, it will be difficult to get the bolts in, that's how you will know it is out of position and needs moved accordingly.

 

All you have to do to remove the keyswitch is take a nail or small punch and stick it in the small hole near the hazard switch. Stick it in there and turn and pull the keyswitch until it comes out, you dont have to remove any screws or anything. My 86 did exactly what yours did and I got a different switch and stuck it in there and it worked like new. Good luck.