I6 problems
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 147
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From: USA
It misses when accelerating. I don't have a points type distributer I don't think. It could be the vaccum advance, how do I check that? Oil is at the right level and still good. Which timing marks do you use to set the timing. The ones on the passenger side or driver side? I might see if I can dig up a timing light to borrow or something to check it myself. I also figured out after looking things over today and changing the carb yesterday that the mechanic got the plug wires for the number 2 and 4 cylinders switched, and that the vaccum line to the carb that controls the vaccum advance was hooked up in the wrong place. The guys is supposed to be one of the best mechanics in town, but those are stupid mistakes. Should I ask for my money back? Anyway, thanks for all the help.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
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That's right, in 78 they had a pointless dist. So now that the wires and carb vac line are in the right place, does it still miss when accelerating? Is it a miss or does the carb bog just a little? If its a miss, I'd check the timing again using the passenger side marks which can be confusing on a 6 cyl. Ford put two notches down there, the larger one IS NOT the timing mark. The smaller one is the one to use. You can also time it by ear by making a reference mark on the dist and block, then loosen the dist. bolt and turn the dist. slowly clockwise or counterclockwise, while listening to the engine up close. Used to do it this way when I was a headstrong kid and didn't have no timing light. When I got one a few years later, I was surprised how close my ear was. If it is out of time slightly, this will affect the vacuum advance...it will advance too much or not enough. You can use an old-fashioned analog tach-dwell meter to check the vacuum advance after the timing is set where it should be. I found mine for $5 bucks at a pawn shop. A Haynes manual gives the steps for this.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: USA
I am pretty sure it is a miss. It misses all the way through the rpm range except at idle. What did you mean when you said don't use the larger one to set the timing? On the driver side, the marks are like stamped into the block or whatever is right there, and on the passenger side it has the bracket that sticks out. Which one of those should I use? Any ideas on what I should do about the mechanic? Or is that money just lost? Thanks for all the help guys.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
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Use the small notch on the flywheel, not the large notch...you will see two under there when you look. Use the bracket on the passengers side. I would pass on the mechanic and count it as a lesson learned. If he knew trucks of your vintage the problem might have been corrected already. Another way to check baseline timing is to pull the plugs and turn the engine over until the No. 1 piston is at TDC...top of its stroke. You can use a long screwdriver inserted in the spark plug hole to gauge when that piston is all the way up at the top of its stroke. Once you get No. 1 to TDC, pull the dist. cap and see where the rotor is pointing. It should point to the No. 1 wire/plug on the dist. cap, you can mark this position before you pull the dist. cap off. If the timing is out a little, ie. rotor pointing to another position, this could cause your miss...as the baseline timing sync is off. Could be the case if the mech timed it using the marks on the drivers side of the block...those are put there at the factory to help the assembly line guys get it together right. Let us know how it progresses.
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Senior User
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From: USA
flywheel? Do you mean the pully bolted to the crankshaft. Flywheel is at the back of the engine isn't it? Alright, I will see what I can get done this afternoon and post later tonight about any progress or lack there of. Thanks again for the help.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: USA
Still working on my truck. The weather has been to bad to do anything with it lately. Just a quick question though. If the the air/fuel mixture was really rich, could it cause the engine to run rough, or maybe even a dead cylinder if there wasn't enough air and too much fuel?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
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Could definitely cause rough running, but wouldn't think it would kill/foul only one plug...I might be wrong though.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: USA
When the truck is running I give it a little gas, like going up a hill or start moving from a stand still, the exhaust smoke is really black. Is that a sign of anything? Almost like a diesel.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Ridgeway, Virginia
The dark smoke is gas, and a lot of it. Is the choke opening all the way or for that matter is it stuck shut. Sounds like it. The smoke and the skip could be two seperate problems. Dont worry about messing with the mixture screw unless you have an idle problem. Idle quality is all that the screw effects. Last I want to say that when a miss is evident under acceleration but not so at idle it usually points to ignition troubles. Last time I had that type problem the spark plugs gap had actually closed on two cylinders in a four cylinder engine. Bosch Platinum plugs are bad about the platinum rod used as the center electrode coming loose and bridging the spark gap. Well I hope some of this helps. Check out that choke real good......
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: USA
FIXED. I found the problem. I feel kind of stupid though. I had two dead plugs. Somewhere between the carb problems and other stuff they went bad on me. Runs like a dream now. No problems. Yet anyway 
Thanks for all the help guys.
Thanks for all the help guys.