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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Nyloc Nuts

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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 05:55 AM
  #16  
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boilerbots
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From: San Jose, CA
I find Nylock style are too expensive and difficult to deal with. Another problem is that the bolt has to be long enough to protrude all the way through the nylon or it won't help.

Instead I always use Loctite. I keep all the various strengths handy but prefer the blue (removable strength). It is especially important to use loctite or a nyloc nut when assembling Aluminum pieces because the large amount of thermal expansion. I assume the same problem would apply to wood (moisture not thermal expansion as much).
 
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 06:03 AM
  #17  
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Albuq

Yes, I use the external star washers sometimes too, but I think the split washers are probably the best solution. I've had a couple beds on my truck. I installed gentle the first time. Then come back a while later and snug them just a bit.

I can't think of a perfect solution) I can see possible nylock removal issues down the road on a real trucks bed strip. And nylocks are certainly not immune to wood expansion-contraction either. If the wood shrinks, you'll have a nut that is tight to the bolt, but the strip won't be as tight as if you had used a split lock washer.

I'd just keep an eye on them for awhile after install. Most of us have much bigger issues than this one.
 

Last edited by fatfenders; Jan 24, 2005 at 06:06 AM.
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 07:33 AM
  #18  
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Madathlon
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here a old Marine trick.. Spring loading the bolts.. it be from top to bottem.. washer spring washer Nyloc nut.. and it would hold the same pressure at all times..
 
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 11:41 AM
  #19  
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Jag Red 54
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I've never had a problem with nylok nuts, but I have had SS bolts gaul. They need a little lube on the threads to prevent the threads from mushing together. I'll bet that is what caused the problems, not the little ring of nylon in the nut. Good luck, John
 
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