Coolant problems...HELP!
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Coolant problems...HELP!
I just replaced the heater bypass valve because the old one was crumbling away at the hose connections. Got everything back together, but now I have a bigger problem. The temperature gauge warms up very slowly, and keeps going all the way to H. But there is no heat being delivered to the vents, and the hoses at the new bypass valve are not getting hot.
Any suggestions? I'm wondering if there may be a thermostat problem of some kind. While removing the old heater bypass valve, I'm sure some pieces of the crumbling plastic fell back into the heater lines. Could they be clogging up the thermostat or something else?
Any suggestions? I'm wondering if there may be a thermostat problem of some kind. While removing the old heater bypass valve, I'm sure some pieces of the crumbling plastic fell back into the heater lines. Could they be clogging up the thermostat or something else?
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
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From: Baltimore
You could have air in the system and/or the heater core could be blocked. This would explain the lact of heat from the vents. Yo didn't mention what year you have, so I'm not sure if it could be blend door related. However, with the temp gauge pegging, I suggest you replace the thermostat.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: West Chester PA
Originally Posted by marragtop
You could have air in the system and/or the heater core could be blocked. This would explain the lact of heat from the vents. Yo didn't mention what year you have, so I'm not sure if it could be blend door related. However, with the temp gauge pegging, I suggest you replace the thermostat.
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It's a 94 explorer. I may try to take out the thermostat altogether and see if I get heat eventually.
Something else I noticed on the heater bypass valve is that I no longer get suction from the vacuum line. What causes the vacuum line to turn on and start sucking air? If my thermostat is clogged with debris from the old bypass valve, would that cause the vacuum to cease?
Something else I noticed on the heater bypass valve is that I no longer get suction from the vacuum line. What causes the vacuum line to turn on and start sucking air? If my thermostat is clogged with debris from the old bypass valve, would that cause the vacuum to cease?
CO River Rat
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Lake Havasu City AZ
I believe the heater control valve is normally open with no vaccuum, and only closes with vaccuum applied when in MAX A/C.
I wouldn't recommend running without a t-stat; the water is moving too fast to properly pick up heat from the block/heads.
Steve
I wouldn't recommend running without a t-stat; the water is moving too fast to properly pick up heat from the block/heads.
Steve
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Finally got the thermostat out. Those bolts are tough to reach!
I put the thermostat in boiling water and it did not open. My next move will be to replace this thermostat. Not quite sure why replacing the heater bypass valve earlier today would have caused the thermostat to fail.
I put the thermostat in boiling water and it did not open. My next move will be to replace this thermostat. Not quite sure why replacing the heater bypass valve earlier today would have caused the thermostat to fail.
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Got it!!! Replaced the thermostat and we're almost back to normal. Water temp still bounces around somewhat and it took a long time to warm up initially. I'm guessing this is due to the fact that I probably still have some air in the system. This will probably work itself out as long as I put some coolant in the overflow tank periodically.
Thanks for eveyone's help. This site is awesome!
Thanks for eveyone's help. This site is awesome!
