Burning Oil
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 85
Likes: 38
From: Socialist State of WA
Burning Oil
I have a 2000 F150 5.4L 4X4 supercab with 69,000 miles that seams to be burning about 2 qts. every 3000 miles. I do not know the history of the truck, just purchased it at Thanksgiving. I am now assuming the previous owner did not change the oil and the rings are sticking. Sometime on a cold start it blows some blue smoke.
Suggestions for improvement?
My thoughts are to use a detergent oil and change it every 2000 mile for the next few months hoping the rings (if that is the issue) will loosen.
Suggestions for improvement?
My thoughts are to use a detergent oil and change it every 2000 mile for the next few months hoping the rings (if that is the issue) will loosen.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,140
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, OH
That would be a good thing... I'd check to see if it's leaking... 2 quarts over 3k miles isn't really a lot... It's enough to be checking things like the intake, vavle covers, and front and rear main seals though.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 3
From: NE Texas
jg,
Yes, you are onto the best approach. As mentioned change the PCV valve for good measure and add two things to your recipe;
Drain the oil when the engine is hot. This will get more junk out of the engine because it is stirred up in the oil.
For this cleaning period, use what is called a "Universal" grade oil. This is the oil that is used in the diesel big rigs. To handle the diesel soot, these oils have lots of detergent and will clean an engine like crazy. They are certified for use in gas engines as well as diesel. Examples of these oils are; Chevron Delo Multigrade (what I use in everything gas or diesel,) Shell Rotella T and Mobil Delvac. There are others but these are the most common. You can find them at Wal Mart or if necessary a truck stop or truck shop.
Good luck,
Doc
ASE Master
Yes, you are onto the best approach. As mentioned change the PCV valve for good measure and add two things to your recipe;
Drain the oil when the engine is hot. This will get more junk out of the engine because it is stirred up in the oil.
For this cleaning period, use what is called a "Universal" grade oil. This is the oil that is used in the diesel big rigs. To handle the diesel soot, these oils have lots of detergent and will clean an engine like crazy. They are certified for use in gas engines as well as diesel. Examples of these oils are; Chevron Delo Multigrade (what I use in everything gas or diesel,) Shell Rotella T and Mobil Delvac. There are others but these are the most common. You can find them at Wal Mart or if necessary a truck stop or truck shop.
Good luck,
Doc
ASE Master
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,679
Likes: 15
From: BC, Canada
Here is what Ford says.......
Vehicles in normal service should get at least 1,450 km per liter (900 miles per quart) after 16,000 km (10,000 miles) of service. High speed driving, towing, high ambient temperature and other factors may result in greater oil use.
I wouldn't be happy with a quart every 900 miles but Ford says that's acceptable
Vehicles in normal service should get at least 1,450 km per liter (900 miles per quart) after 16,000 km (10,000 miles) of service. High speed driving, towing, high ambient temperature and other factors may result in greater oil use.
I wouldn't be happy with a quart every 900 miles but Ford says that's acceptable
Junior User
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
My 2001 Screw 5.4L starting burning 1 quart of oil every 2 or 3 tanks of gas at 70,000 miles. I don't know about you but i have driven a lot of V8's in the last 30 years and they simply should not burn oil if everything is working OK. I don't have any leaks and from my symptoms (smokes on startup after sitting over night) it indicates bad valve seals. I am going to replace them in a few weeks and let you know how it goes.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 85
Likes: 38
From: Socialist State of WA
Excellent information everyone, it helps me.
I had a 1991 F150 4X4 300 I6 shorty that never ever needed oil, even after 125K miles. Great truck, little sorry I sold it.
I had a 1991 F150 4X4 300 I6 shorty that never ever needed oil, even after 125K miles. Great truck, little sorry I sold it.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 1999
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Before replacing my valve seals, I went ahead a replaced the PCV valve hoping for a quick easy fix. I took out the original valve and checked it. The PCV valve was stuck in the open position. My truck runs like never before. Its too early to see if it fixed my oil burning problem but I am hopefull. When a PCV sticks open it hurts your engine performance under load like accerating or lugging up a hill. It also causes oil to be sucked in the intake manifold area. 3 weesk or so i should know whether or not my oil buring problem has been fixed.
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
How often should the PCV valve be changed or checked. Also, and please forgive my ignorance, where is it located in my 1997 F150. I'm not burning oil but may help my performance which fits the description from above.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
My truck was smoking blue on start up and while it was under warranty, I took it to the dealer. They kept the truck overnight and gave it back to me making me feel stupid. It still smoked so I read somewhere on this site about changing the PCV valve, and guess what? No more smokey! You guys are the best.
Junior User
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
I can not tell you exactly where the PCV is on your 1997 F150 but it is on one of the valve covers. There will be a black hose about 5/8" OD coming off the vavle. Just go to Autozone and buy a PCV valve for $3 or $4 and they can show you where it is if you can not find it. Typicaly the hose from the factory is just pushed on and not clamped. You don't even need any tools to change it. To check your old on one do this - take your valve out and gently suck air thru it with your mouth (the end the hose was attached too), momentarily put your finger over the other end (the end that was in the vavle cover) and you will hear/feel the valve close when you plug the end with your finger. If the valve is plugged shut, stuck open or sticky/slow to close and open then its bad.
