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suggestion...take your fan off, drive down the road with out a fan, make sure you will not get in a traffic jam, and see how your vehicle performs without a fan, see if the added performance is worth the money you will spend on the fans...I WOULD RECOMMEND BUYING A KIT SPECIFICALLY MADE FOR YOUR VEHICLE
In all realialty when you buy an electirc fan setup for a specific vehicle you are buying it for the fit, as they are all the fans and motors, the only differences between spefic fit and universal types are the fit, as you can buy them to flow any amount cfms you want.
You can also buy themo activated switches and all the wiring too. And if you have a saw all, heat gun, and a rivet gun (or however you want to make it) you can make a good used fan work with anything.
gotta agree with mustange70 on this, you can make a setup with as many cfm as you want and use heavy duty electrical parts instead of relying on the stuff in a "kit". And by the way, the seat of the pants HP increase is worth the $$ + you get a little better mileage too.
Yeah i have a dual electric fan setup out of a dodge shadow or something (small dodge car with a v-6, can't remember the name off the top of my head but the fans flow about 3000-3500 cfm, i know a guy in the offroad forum running the same fans on a 550hp 302 cleveland he built and he hasn't had any problems.
having the fans wired to constant power helps during the summer months since the temp will rise after the engine is shut off but you run the chance of running down your battery should the thermal switch fail or be adjusted incorrectly. the amount of amps the fans are rated at will also affect the drain on the the battery.
I have found that the threaded in-block probes are more realiable than the push in or clamp style ones for the radiator.
personaly I would wire it to ignition power or run a switch to the dash for manual operation.
I would stick to having the power to the fans wired for switched ignition power. Running the fans after the engine is off doesnt do any good as the water pump is not circulating the water anymore.
If you get the custom built fan kits most already have a relay built in to keep the fans running for a certain length of time after you shut the truck off. It helps to have the fans run a little after shutdown but they don't need to run very long.
For one you are still pulling or pushing air through the radiator, second you will also move air over the engine. Water pump does not have to run in order for water to move through the system, the temp differential will cause water to flow or move. When you turn off the engine there is a time when the water will still be absorbing heat thus becoming hotter, leaving the fans on for a bit will cool down the hot spots that can occur.
I guess it could help minimally, though I sincerely doubt it is significant without the water being circulated. I dont know that it really matters that much, given there is no more heat being produced with the engine not running any longer. The electrical consumtion of these large draw fans would surely be more of a concern for many. I dont think there will be significant circulation in a sealed and pressurized system regardless of the temp differential. If excessive heat build up after shut down is a valid concern, why doesent all of the major mfgs of these e-fan units along with the auto mfgs that use factory e-fans have the fans run on after shut down? Again, I have two different brands of these fans, no run on is present. We also own a Luxury car with e-fans....no run on on this either.
I run a 3 fan system, on two separate temp circuits because I tow a lot, and they are both hooked up to the battery directly. The battery is a marine heavy duty battery. It can handle the drain on the system, and still start the vehicle right up. Been this way for about 2 years now, and no problems. One thing that I would worry about if you hook them up directly to an "ignition on" circuit is the gauge of wire that the circuit is run on. These fans do draw TONS of current, and a small wire ( 8 - 10 reccommended ) will not hold up. Now if you mount a heavy duty relay to the "ignition on" circuit to activate the relay and run the battery wire thru the relay for fan power, you should be fine.
Your right Ray, you should always use a relay to activate the e fans from an ignition on source. The power being supplied to run these fans should always be on they're own circuit, wired directly to the battery (with fuses of course) using the proper sized wire as calculated from the amperage draw of the fans.