If I make the overload be a full time spring How much stiffer will it be?How much more load leveling will it have? I read somewhere that the factory over on the 78 F350 DRW truck is good for 750lbs extra load leveling. How much more stable will it be with the overload being fulltime?
I will take pictures so you can view my little problem but I think I have it kinda salved. I put the O'reily underpack helper spring on the back of the main pack where it supports that 5" of longer spring and then bolted it to the main pack so it keeps the very top leaf from"raising" up off the 2nd leaf and bending around because the top leaf was longer. I want ultra stiff. I want to make that top overload full time.
What truck do I order my bumpstops from at the dealer?
later
Dustin

 

Ask for bump stops from a '94-up F350. Seems like '94 is cutoff year that they like to quit stocking alot of parts for the older trucks. Not sure on how much the overload spring atop the spring pack is rated for. My F350 has the same rear springs as the F250's as far as I know except for the overload spring and my GVWR is 400 lbs higher than an F250. Have no idea if that means anything when it comes to the overload spring or not though.

I do know that my slide-in truck camper is much more stable when I can get the truck to sit down on the overload leafs. The truck feels more stable with the camper on and the trailer hooked up than with just the camper because the trailer hitch weight sinks the truck down onto the overload just a little bit more than just having the camper on. I would like to raise my overload leaf up with a taller spacer, or bring my frame stops down to meet the spring sooner, to get more stability from the overload though, because even with the camper and the trailer, the truck is still not down far enough on the spring.

 

That is what I want to do SoCal. I want to get my stops to be on a good bit under normal driving.How do I get the 94-up stops to come on sooner?What is the easiest way to install the stops-take off the gas tank? How much are the stops at the dealer?
Thanks a bunch SoCal
Dustin

 

I was just told by a ford stealer that the 94-up F250 have a diffrent part # for the bump stops. I have access to that 78 F350 donor that I robbed the leaves out of but the stops are riveted to the frame. My past experience is that rivets are a pain, anything you know to make the rivets come out easier would be greatly welcomed as my last project took me about an hour per rivet and it was 97* out and I was wore out to say the least. I also wore out a grinding pad that was brand new. PLEASE anything to make those rivets to come out easier.
With the factory-style stops and the factory overload will the overload be a full time spring or is thier a way I can make it such??? I want them to push the overloads down about 1" under normal usage.
Thanks
Dustin

 

Dustin,

I figured they would be a different part number. The newer ones would probably still work though. It's a pretty simple part. As long as they stick out the right distance from the frame to meet the spring, they can be mounted wherever on the framerail that will make them contact the bumpstops at the right height. The older ones would probably be the better choice though. I was thinking you might not be able to find ones from your year frame is why I suggested the later year.

The rivets can be removed by grinding off the heads with an angle grinder and punching out the rest of it with a hammer and punch. A heavy duty grinder will make quick work of the rivet heads. You need only punch them out far enough to get the bumpstop off. More persuasion with a torch might save time on the punching part, as well as a pry bar to pry the bumpstop off what's left of the rivet. Watch out for the proximity of the gas tank,hoses, etc if you use the torch!

Measure the distance apart from eachother the stops are on the old frame, compare to spring length, and install the stops on the new frame if holes are not already there by marking the location of the rivet holes, drill pilot holes with a smaller size bit, then drill the real hole with the right size bit. Mount with grade 5 or better bolts.

The spring will come into effect sooner if you mount the bump stops lower on the frame rail, or put a taller lift block under the spring (the one on top of the spring pack between the main springs and the overload).

Normally the overload leafs do not come into play untill the truck is loaded. This allows a softer ride when empty and greater weight carrying ability and stability when loaded.

I'm not convinced having the overload leaf come into effect at all times even when the truck is empty is such a great thing. The spring makes alot of squeaking when it come into effect, because of the way the ends of the leaf slide back and forth on the underside of the bumpstops with suspension movement. It would also make the empty ride rougher. I don't see anything else wrong with it though and if you can live with the first two issues, I suppose they will work fine in effect all the time.

 

Ya,
Thanks as always SoCal, I think I will just grind them off of the donor 78 f350 DRW. My truck looks like it has the holes already drilled in the frame. It looks as if I will have to take my rear mounted gas tank out to put the back two stops on. Any tips on removing the gas tank?

 

I've never removed the gas tank on your year truck. Tank removal is a pretty simple operation though. Just drain it before you drop it .