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Hey Reamer, I believe what you are referring to is the crankcase ventilating tube (technically the "road draft tube" )on your flathead. The precursor to the PCV/EGR, most folks are more familiar with now. You probably have a 2-bbl carb on the engine and it is an easy task to install a PCV valve on this engine. Search for PCV valve at www.fordbarn.com/earlyv8/forum , you will find a number of solutions that others have come up with that are ver effective. Keep on truckin.
I've been thinking about the fumes coming from the road tube as well. I really want to keep the stock road tube, but I hate the idea of all that crud coming up in the engine compartment and making a mess.
Since the stuff coming out is about at the coolant or oil temperature (not exhaust temperature), I've been thinking of using a length of heater hose to route the road tube output to the side in the wheel well. When I want to show the truck, I can take off the heater hose and have a stock engine. I haven't really thought this totally through, so I'd appreciate any comments.
Reamer, I don't want to hijack your thread. Should I start a new thread for this, or is it close enough to your original question?
Reamer, check out my gallery under the '48 "Wendy" and you'll see a couple of pictures of my pcv system that I've run for over 3 years. I pulled the road draft tube, installed a pcv plug/valve that fits snug in the RD hole. Connected a piece of 5/8" hose and ran it back to the intake manifold where I had a pipe plug. Replaced the plug with a nipple and connected the hose.
Don't connect the pcv to the carb - you'll plug the carb. It needs manifold vacuum to work properly. I've heard concerns that it'll lean out the mix, but I haven't seen any problems along those lines.
The dirt and crud under the hood is the result of 3 years of a front seal leak + a radiator leak + living on a dirt road.
Sorry, I put that together almost 5 years ago. It was just off the shelf grommet and a 90* pcv valve for a similar cid engine. Couldn't tell you what it was for. Picked them up at the local CarQuest parts house. I just walked thru the store and pulled them off the rack. It's not too particular from what I've seen.
[QUOTE=mtflat]Reamer, check out my gallery under the '48 "Wendy" and you'll see a couple of pictures of my pcv system that I've run for over 3 years. I pulled the road draft tube, installed a pcv plug/valve that fits snug in the RD hole. Connected a piece of 5/8" hose and ran it back to the intake manifold where I had a pipe plug. Replaced the plug with a nipple and connected the hose.
Don't connect the pcv to the carb - you'll plug the carb. It needs manifold vacuum to work properly. I've heard concerns that it'll lean out the mix, but I haven't seen any problems along those lines.
I looked at your picture of the PVC installation. If memory serves me right you also need an oil filler cap with the hose connection, and hose, that runs up to the air cleaner. The draft tube connection won't pull the fumes out fast enough under throttle when engine vacuum is low. That is when the hose going to the air cleaner takes over. I can remember my dad telling me of an engine that blew the pan gasket because of the PVC pressure buildup. That is the basic PVC setup you find on most SBC's of the late 50's and early 60's
Do you have a part # for the pcv you used?
How about a photo of the valve?
I'd like to try ypur hook up.
Thanks
Reamer
Try contacting Tatom Flathead Engines, or Flathead Jack. They may still have some NOS PVC changeover kits around. I remember that they were popular in the late 60's.
As I recall there is a certain hole size in the draft tube to manifold connection, for different engines. So only a certain amount of air could come through. So the engine wouldn't run too lean. You will need the oil filler cap with hose running to the air cleaner also.
I recall my dad looking up the hole size specs somewhere. I can't recall exactly what he was looking in, to many years have gone by. He did have a bunch of Motor Manuals though. I want to install the PVC unit myself on my 51 6 cylinder. So if you find out anything please post them, or e-mail me.
The hose going to the air cleaner is not supposed to take over. The ventilation system is supposed to suck air from the oil filler tube through the crankcase and out the pvc valve. The hose being in the air cleaner provides clean fresh air so you are not sucking dirt into the crank case. If you have oil in the air filter from the tube you either have a PCV valve that is sticking so the blow by from the engine is causing pressure and pushing the fumes back into the air filter. Or a engine that is so badly worn that the PVC system cannot keep up with the amount of blow by. I guess there is a third in this case, the PCV system is undersized and not keeping up if you have known good motor. I once had a motor that was so worn that I was getting oil into the airfilter. I put a second PCV valve in and "T" it into the the original PCV
I can see a potential problem with older flatheads, but not the later 8BA series. I could see someone with a 59 series or earlier engine running a pcv system and electric fuel pump where they've capped off the crankcase ventilation system for looks - that might blow a pan off. Or an earlier intake on an 8BA.
The F-series trucks (48-54) with V8 flatheads have a screened fresh-air intake right beside the road draft tube. Mine is intact and would provide the same thing you guys are talking about with the extra tube to the carb filter area. I agree with the concept, it just isn't necessary with the 8BA/8RT flatheads IF you leave the stock oil tube/cap in place.
With this system during low vacuum intervals, crankcase pressure can either push past the pcv valve OR back up and out the oil breather.
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